Agenda packet — Imperial Beach City Council, August 2, 2023 (part 3 of 3)

Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%

ADMINISTRATIVE SERVICES
Fee Name
Renewal
Commercial flat 478.00 $ NEW $ 10.00 $ 120.00 $ 239.00 $ 359.00 Home Based flat 478.00 $ NEW $ 10.00 $ 120.00 $ 239.00 $ 359.00Regulatory flat 287.00 $ NEW $ 10.00 $ 72.00 $ 144.00 $ 215.00Rentals flat 478.00 $ NEW $ 10.00 $ 120.00 $ 239.00 $ 359.00Temporary ‐ For Special Events flat $ 478.00 See
Recreation Fee
Schedule
See
Recreation Fee
Schedule $ 120.00 $ 239.00 $ 359.00
Out of City flat $ 478.00 NEW $ 10.00 $ 120.00 $ 239.00 $ 359.00 Change of Location each 191.00 $ $ 1.00 $ 20.00 $ 48.00 $ 96.00 $ 143.00 Duplicate License Fee each 191.00 $ $ 10.00 $ 20.00 $ 48.00 $ 96.00 $ 143.00 Concession Stands, Hawkers, Transient Sales
Concession Stand daily 191.00 $ $ 50.00 $ 20.00 $ 48.00 $ 96.00 $ 143.00 Hawkers daily 383.00 $ $ 25.00 $ 20.00 $ 96.00 $ 192.00 $ 287.00 6 City Clerk Fees [4]
Copy fee
Less than 10 pages flat No Charge No Charge
10 pages and greater per page $ 0.10 $ 0.10
Documents provided on USB flash drive (applicant provides flash drive) flat No Charge No Charge Documents provided on USB flash drive (City provides flash drive) actual cost of
USB
Actual Cost of
USB
Actual Cost of
USB
9 Credit Card Fees/Service Charges [5]
NTE actual
cost of 3rd
Party Vendor
NTE Actual
Cost
7 For services requested of City staff which have no fee listed in this fee schedule hourly 191.00 $ $ 57.00 $ 191.00 [1] Sourced from "City of Imperial Beach Master Fee Schedule.pdf" provided by City [2] City processing fee only. Other fees may apply from outside agencies. [3] Finance processing fees only. Fees from other City departments may apply. [4] Fees set by State. NBS did not evaluate
[5] Service provided by third party consultant
Notes
DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%
A. ANNUAL OCCUPANCY INSPECTIONS
1 Group A ‐ Assembly related occupancies
A‐2 flat 420.00 $ $ 200.00 $ 420.00 $ 105.00 $ 210.00 $ 315.00 A‐3 flat 420.00 $ $ 75.00 $ 420.00 $ 105.00 $ 210.00 $ 315.00 2 Group B ‐ Business flat 334.00 $ $ 50.00 $ 334.00 $ 84.00 $ 167.00 $ 251.00 3 Group C ‐ Camps flat 420.00 $ NEW $ 420.00 $ 105.00 $ 210.00 $ 315.00 4 Group E ‐ Education flat 420.00 $ $ 200.00 $ 420.00 $ 105.00 $ 210.00 $ 315.00 5 Group F ‐ Factory
F‐1 flat 464.00 $ $ 100.00 $ 464.00 $ 116.00 $ 232.00 $ 348.00 F‐2 flat 420.00 $ $ 75.00 $ 420.00 $ 105.00 $ 210.00 $ 315.00 6 Group H ‐ High‐Hazard flat 493.00 $ $ 200.00 $ 493.00 $ 123.00 $ 247.00 $ 370.00 7 Group I ‐ Institutional
I‐1 flat 493.00 $ $ 75.00 $ 493.00 $ 123.00 $ 247.00 $ 370.00 I‐2 flat 493.00 $ $ 75.00 $ 493.00 $ 123.00 $ 247.00 $ 370.00 I‐3 flat 493.00 $ $ 75.00 $ 493.00 $ 123.00 $ 247.00 $ 370.00 8 Group L ‐ Occupancies Located above the 10th Story flat 493.00 $ NEW $ 493.00 $ 123.00 $ 247.00 $ 370.00 9 Group M ‐ Merchantile flat 436.00 $ $ 50.00 $ 436.00 $ 109.00 $ 218.00 $ 327.00 10 Group R‐1 ‐ Hotels flat 507.00 $ NEW $ 507.00 $ 127.00 $ 254.00 $ 380.00 11 Group R‐2.1 ‐ Residential Care Facility flat 407.00 $ NEW $ 407.00 $ 102.00 $ 204.00 $ 305.0012 Group S ‐ Storage S‐1 flat 436.00 $ $ 200.00 $ 436.00 $ 109.00 $ 218.00 $ 327.00 S‐2 flat 436.00 $ $ 200.00 $ 436.00 $ 109.00 $ 218.00 $ 327.00 S‐3 flat 436.00 $ $ 200.00 $ 436.00 $ 109.00 $ 218.00 $ 327.00 S‐4 flat 436.00 $ $ 50.00 $ 436.00 $ 109.00 $ 218.00 $ 327.00 S‐5 flat 436.00 $ $ 75.00 $ 436.00 $ 109.00 $ 218.00 $ 327.00

FIRE INSPECTION SERVICES
Fee Name
DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%

FIRE INSPECTION SERVICES
Fee Name
13 Residential Rental Fire Inspections
Processing Fee
New License flat 14.00 $ $ 20.00 $ 14.00 $ 4.00 $ 7.00 $ 11.00 Renewal flat 14.00 $ $ 10.00 $ 14.00 $ 4.00 $ 7.00 $ 11.00 Inspection
Single Family and Duplex Dwelings (CFC ClassificaƟon R‐3) per unit 87.00 $ $ 50.00 $ 87.00 $ 22.00 $ 44.00 $ 65.00MulƟfamily ProperƟes (CFC ClassificaƟon R‐2 and R‐4) 3‐15 Units per unit 14.00 $ $ 20.00 $ 14.00 $ 4.00 $ 7.00 $ 11.00 16‐50 Unit per unit 14.00 $ $ 15.00 $ 14.00 $ 4.00 $ 7.00 $ 11.00 51+ Units per unit 14.00 $ $ 10.00 $ 14.00 $ 4.00 $ 7.00 $ 11.00 14 Pyrotechnic flat 433.00 $ $ 250.00 $ 433.00 $ 108.00 $ 217.00 $ 325.00 15 Business License Review ‐ New License flat $ 87.00 $ 20.00 $ 87.00 $ 22.00 $ 44.00 $ 65.00 B. DEVELOPMENT PLAN REVIEW AND INSPECTION
16 Planning Review hourly 173.00 $ $ 100.00 $ 173.00 $ 43.00 $ 87.00 $ 130.00 17 Building Review hourly 173.00 $ $ 100.00 $ 173.00 $ 43.00 $ 87.00 $ 130.00 18 Fire Sprinklers
NFPA 13 & 13‐R [2]
Base review: 1‐100 heads flat 1,384.00 $ $ 800.00 $ 800.00 $ 346.00 $ 692.00 $ 1,038.00 Each additional 100 heads, or fraction thereof flat 346.00 $ $ 200.00 $ 200.00 $ 87.00 $ 173.00 $ 260.00 Minor alteration of an existing system (3 heads or less) [3] flat 519.00 $ $ 300.00 $ 300.00 $ 130.00 $ 260.00 $ 389.00 NFPA 13‐D [2]
Base review: 1‐50 heads flat 692.00 $ $ 400.00 $ 400.00 $ 173.00 $ 346.00 $ 519.00 Each additional 50 heads, or fraction thereof flat 346.00 $ $ 200.00 $ 200.00 $ 87.00 $ 173.00 $ 260.00 Minor alteration of an existing system (2 heads or less) [4] flat 346.00 $ $ 200.00 $ 200.00 $ 87.00 $ 173.00 $ 260.00 19 Automatic Extinguishing System Review (A.E.S.) [5]
Base review flat 692.00 $ $ 400.00 $ 400.00 $ 173.00 $ 346.00 $ 519.00 Each additional system or multi‐system operations flat 346.00 $ $ 200.00 $ 200.00 $ 87.00 $ 173.00 $ 260.00 20 NFPA 72 Fire Alarm System [6]
Base review: 1‐25 devices flat 1,038.00 $ $ 600.00 $ 600.00 $ 260.00 $ 519.00 $ 779.00 Each additional 25 devices or fraction thereof flat 173.00 $ $ 100.00 $ 100.00 $ 43.00 $ 87.00 $ 130.00 Minor alteraƟon of an exisƟng system (4 devices or less, no panel change) flat 346.00 $ $ 200.00 $ 200.00 $ 87.00 $ 173.00 $ 260.00 21 Emergency Response
Command Vehicle ‐ chief per hour $ ‐ $ ‐
Engine ‐ 4 person per hour $ 220.00 $ 220.00
Squad Vehicle ‐ 2 person (captain & firefighter) per hour $ ‐ $ ‐ DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%

FIRE INSPECTION SERVICES
Fee Name
Fire Marshal per hour 100.00 $ $ 100.00
22 During Business Hours hourly 173.00 $ $ 100.00 $ 173.00 After Business Hours hourly 199.00 $ $ 100.00 $ 199.00
[1] Sourced from "City of Imperial Beach Master Fee Schedule.pdf" provided by City [2] Per riser. Inspection fee is included with review.[3] Any alteration exceeding 3 heads requires a new submittal [4] Any alteration exceeding 2 heads requires a new submittal [5] Includes commercial kitchen, clean agent, paint booth, etc. Inspection fee is included with review. Any alteration requires a new submittal. [6] Any alteration exceeing 4 devices requires a new submittal. Inspection fee is inlcuded with review.

Notes
For additional plan reviews past 2nd submittal, for additional inspections beyond 2, or for services requested of City staff which have no fee listed in this fee schedule DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%
1 ABC Permit Review flat $ 194.00 NEW $ 194.00 $ 49.00 $ 97.00 $ 146.00 2 Appeals
Applicant Initiated flat $ 1,549.00 $ 100.00 $ 1,549.00 $ 387.00 $ 775.00 $ 1,162.00 Other than Applicant Initiated flat $ 1,549.00 $ 100.00 $ 1,549.00 $ 387.00 $ 775.00 $ 1,162.00 3 Boundary Adjustment
City Administrative Fee
minimum
fee $ 1,161.00 $ 500.00 $ 1,161.00 $ 290.00 $ 581.00 $ 871.00 Consultant Costs actual cost Actual Cost Actual Cost Actual Cost 4 Business License Review [6] flat $ 97.00 NEW 97.00 $ $ 24.00 $ 49.00 $ 73.00 5 Cannabis (annual) minimum fee
See
Resolution
2021‐83
See
Resolution
2021‐83
6 Certificate of Compliance [2]
City Administrative Fee
minimum
fee $ 1,161.00 $ 400.00 $ 1,161.00 $ 290.00 $ 581.00 $ 871.00 Consultant Costs actual cost Actual Cost Actual Cost
7 Coastal Permit
Administrative minimum fee $ 2,323.00 $ 1,500.00 $ 2,323.00 $ 581.00 $ 1,162.00 $ 1,742.00 Regular minimum fee $ 5,807.00 $ 2,000.00 $ 5,807.00 $ 1,452.00 $ 2,904.00 $ 4,355.00 Coastal Commission Local Agency Review minimum fee $ 774.00 NEW 774.00 $ $ 194.00 $ 387.00 $ 581.00 8 Conditional Use Permit minimum fee $ 5,807.00 $ 2,000.00 $ 5,807.00 $ 1,452.00 $ 2,904.00 $ 4,355.00 9 Design Review
Administrative minimum fee $ 2,323.00 $ 1,500.00 $ 2,323.00 $ 581.00 $ 1,162.00 $ 1,742.00 Design Review Board/Planning Commission/Council minimum fee $ 5,807.00 $ 1,500.00 $ 5,807.00 $ 1,452.00 $ 2,904.00 $ 4,355.00 10 Environmental Review [3]
Initial Assessment hourly $ 194.00 $ 1,000.00 $ 194.00 $ 49.00 $ 97.00 $ 146.00 Negative Declaration / Mitigated Negative Declaration
COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT ‐ PLANNING DIVISION
Fee Name
DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%
COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT ‐ PLANNING DIVISION
Fee Name
City Administrative Fee minimum fee $ 5,807.00 $ 2,000.00 $ 5,807.00 $ 1,452.00 $ 2,904.00 $ 4,355.00 Consultant Costs [2] actual cost Actual Cost Actual Cost Environmental Impact Report
City Administrative Fee minimum fee $ 10,646.00 $ 7,000.00 $ 10,646.00 $ 2,662.00 $ 5,323.00 $ 7,985.00 Consultant Costs [2] actual cost Actual Cost Actual Cost 11 General Plan Amendment minimum fee $ 10,646.00 $ 5,000.00 $ 10,646.00 $ 2,662.00 $ 5,323.00 $ 7,985.00 12 Grading Plan
City Administrative Fee minimum fee $ 581.00 $ 1,000.00 $ 581.00 $ 145.00 $ 291.00 $ 436.00 Consultant actual cost Actual Cost Actual Cost
13 Maps
Tentative Map
Parcel Map (1‐4 lots)
City Administrative Fee minimum fee $ 3,484.00 $ 2,500.00 $ 3,484.00 $ 871.00 $ 1,742.00 $ 2,613.00 Consultant Costs [2] actual cost Actual Cost Actual Cost Subdivision Map (5+ lots)
City Administrative Fee minimum fee $ 5,807.00 $ 3,000.00 $ 5,807.00 $ 1,452.00 $ 2,904.00 $ 4,355.00 Consultant Costs [2] actual cost Actual Cost Actual Cost Final Map
Parcel Map (1‐4 lots)
City Administrative Fee minimum fee $ 3,484.00 $ 2,000.00 $ 3,484.00 $ 871.00 $ 1,742.00 $ 2,613.00 Consultant Costs [2] actual cost Actual Cost Actual Cost County Surveyor Fee actual cost Actual Cost Actual Cost Subdivision Map (5+ lots)
City Administrative Fee minimum fee $ 5,807.00 $ 2,500.00 $ 5,807.00 $ 1,452.00 $ 2,904.00 $ 4,355.00 Consultant Costs [2] actual cost Actual Cost Actual Cost County Surveyor Fee [2] actual cost Actual Cost Actual Cost Condo Conversion
4 Units or Less
City Administrative Fee minimum fee $ 3,484.00 NEW $ 3,484.00 $ 871.00 $ 1,742.00 $ 2,613.00 Consultant Costs [2] actual cost Actual Cost Actual Cost 5+ Units
DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%
COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT ‐ PLANNING DIVISION
Fee Name
City Administrative Fee minimum fee $ 5,807.00 NEW $ 5,807.00 $ 1,452.00 $ 2,904.00 $ 4,355.00 Consultant Costs [2] actual cost Actual Cost Actual Cost Time Extension
Parcel Map (1‐4 lots) minimum fee $ 968.00 $ 500.00 $ 968.00 $ 242.00 $ 484.00 $ 726.00 Subdivision Map (5+ lots) minimum fee $ 1,549.00 $ 1,000.00 $ 1,549.00 $ 387.00 $ 775.00 $ 1,162.00 14 Outdoor Sales Permit
No Inspection Required flat $ 97.00 $ 50.00 $ 97.00 $ 24.00 $ 49.00 $ 73.00 Fire Inspection Required [5] flat $ 387.00 $ 50.00 $ 387.00 $ 97.00 $ 194.00 $ 290.00 15 Planning Commission Interpretation minimum fee $ 2,323.00 $ 750.00 $ 2,323.00 $ 581.00 $ 1,162.00 $ 1,742.00 16 Pre‐application Conference minimum fee $ 387.00 $ 250.00 $ 387.00 $ 97.00 $ 194.00 $ 290.00 17 Preliminary Review
First 30 minutes flat $ 97.00 NEW No Charge 24.00 $ $ 49.00 $ 73.00 Additional Review Time per hour $ 194.00 NEW $ 194.00 $ 49.00 $ 97.00 $ 146.00 18 Review of Building
Residential Alteration each $ 387.00 NEW $ 387.00 $ 97.00 $ 194.00 $ 290.00Residential Addition each $ 387.00 NEW $ 387.00 $ 97.00 $ 194.00 $ 290.00Residential New each $ 387.00 NEW $ 387.00 $ 97.00 $ 194.00 $ 290.00Commercial T.I. each $ 387.00 NEW $ 387.00 $ 97.00 $ 194.00 $ 290.00Commercial Addition each $ 387.00 NEW $ 387.00 $ 97.00 $ 194.00 $ 290.00New Commercial or Mixed‐Use each $ 387.00 NEW $ 387.00 $ 97.00 $ 194.00 $ 290.00 19 Rezone minimum fee $ 10,646.00 $ 3,000.00 $ 10,646.00 $ 2,662.00 $ 5,323.00 $ 7,985.00 20 Sign Permit / Admin minimum fee $ 581.00 $ 200.00 $ 581.00 $ 145.00 $ 291.00 $ 436.00 21 Sign Program minimum fee $ 1,161.00 NEW $ 1,161.00 $ 290.00 $ 581.00 $ 871.00 22 Site Plan Review
DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%
COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT ‐ PLANNING DIVISION
Fee Name
Administrative minimum fee $ 2,323.00 $ 3,000.00 $ 2,323.00 $ 581.00 $ 1,162.00 $ 1,742.00 Regular minimum fee $ 5,807.00 $ 3,000.00 $ 5,807.00 $ 1,452.00 $ 2,904.00 $ 4,355.00 23 Temporary Outdoor Sales Permit flat $ 97.00 NEW $ 97.00 $ 24.00 $ 49.00 $ 73.00 24 Variance minimum fee $ 5,807.00 $ 1,800.00 $ 5,807.00 $ 1,452.00 $ 2,904.00 $ 4,355.00 25 Zoning and Code Review flat $ 194.00 $ 70.00 $ 194.00 $ 49.00 $ 97.00 $ 146.00 26 Zoning Verification Letter flat $ 194.00 NEW $ 194.00 $ 49.00 $ 97.00 $ 146.00 27 For services requested of City staff which have no fee listed in this fee schedule hourly $ 194.00 $ 139.00 $ 194.00 $ 49.00 $ 97.00 $ 146.00 [1] Sourced from "City of Imperial Beach Master Fee Schedule.pdf" provided by City [2] Service provided by third party consultant
[3] See CA Fish & Wildlife websites for additional applicable fees [4][5] Finance processing fees only. Fees from other City departments may apply. [6] Applies to new business license application
The Community Development Director may waive portions of any deposit if certain aspects of a permit may be inapplicable or if there may be multiple permits being processed concurrently.

Notes
DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
[Deposit]
Amount
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%
A. ABUILDING PERMIT AND PLAN CHECK FEES [1] [2]
1 Building Permit/Inspection
base fee up
to $500 $ 362.00 $ 36.00 $ 362.00 $ 91.00 $ 181.00 $ 272.00 each additional $100 or fraction thereof
each add'l
$100 $ 8.05 $ 4.65 $ 8.05 $ 2.00 $ 4.00 $ 6.00
base fee @
2,000 $ 483.00 $ 107.00 $ 483.00 $ 121.00 $ 242.00 $ 362.00 each additional $1,000 or fraction thereof
each add'l
$1,000 $ 10.50 $ 20.89 $ 10.50 $ 3.00 $ 5.00 $ 8.00
base fee @
$25,000 $ 725.00 $ 597.00 $ 725.00 $ 181.00 $ 363.00 $ 544.00 each additional $1,000 or fraction thereof
each add'l
$1,000 $ 24.16 $ 15.40 $ 24.16 $ 6.00 $ 12.00 $ 18.00
base fee @
$50,000 $ 1,329.00 $ 982.00 $ 1,329.00 $ 332.00 $ 665.00 $ 997.00 each additional $1,000 or fraction thereof
each add'l
$1,000 $ 19.33 $ 13.34 $ 19.33 $ 5.00 $ 10.00 $ 14.00
base fee @
$100,000 $ 2,295.00 $ 1,515.00 $ 2,295.00 $ 574.00 $ 1,148.00 $ 1,721.00 each additional $1,000 or fraction thereof
each add'l
$1,000 $ 14.80 $ 8.89 $ 14.80 $ 4.00 $ 7.00 $ 11.00
base fee @
$500,000 $ 8,215.00 $ 5,153.00 $ 8,215.00 $ 2,054.00 $ 4,108.00 $ 6,161.00 each additional $1,000 or fraction thereof
each add'l
$1,000 $ 15.46 $ 7.54 $ 15.46 $ 4.00 $ 8.00 $ 12.00
base fee @
1,000,000 $ 15,946.00 $ 8,915.00 $ 15,946.00 $ 3,987.00 $ 7,973.00 $ 11,960.00 each additional $1,000 or fraction thereof
each add'l
$1,000 $ 15.95 $ 7.54 $ 15.95 $ 4.00 $ 8.00 $ 12.00
2 Building Plan Check
base fee up
to $500 $ 483.00 $ 23.00 $ 483.00 $ 121.00 $ 242.00 $ 362.00 each additional $100 or fraction thereof
each add'l
$100 $ 16.11 $ 3.02 $ 16.11 $ 4.00 $ 8.00 $ 12.00
base fee @
2,000 $ 725.00 $ 69.00 $ 725.00 $ 181.00 $ 363.00 $ 544.00 each additional $1,000 or fraction thereof
each add'l
$1,000 $ 21.01 $ 13.58 $ 21.01 $ 5.00 $ 11.00 $ 16.00
base fee @
$25,000 $ 1,208.00 $ 388.00 $ 1,208.00 $ 302.00 $ 604.00 $ 906.00 each additional $1,000 or fraction thereof
each add'l
$1,000 $ 9.66 $ 10.01 $ 9.66 $ 2.00 $ 5.00 $ 7.00
$2,000$25,000$500$2,000

BUILDING, SAFETY & INSPECTION
Fee Name
$500,000$1,000,000$500$25,000$50,000$100,000
DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
[Deposit]
Amount
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%

BUILDING, SAFETY & INSPECTION
Fee Name
base fee @
$50,000 $ 1,450.00 $ 638.00 $ 1,450.00 $ 363.00 $ 725.00 $ 1,088.00 each additional $1,000 or fraction thereof
each add'l
$1,000 $ 4.83 $ 8.67 $ 4.83 $ 1.00 $ 2.00 $ 4.00
base fee @
$100,000 $ 1,691.00 $ 985.00 $ 1,691.00 $ 423.00 $ 846.00 $ 1,268.00 each additional $1,000 or fraction thereof
each add'l
$1,000 $ 2.11 $ 5.78 $ 2.11 $ 1.00 $ 1.00 $ 2.00
base fee @
$500,000 $ 2,537.00 $ 3,349.00 $ 2,537.00 $ 634.00 $ 1,269.00 $ 1,903.00 each additional $1,000 or fraction thereof
each add'l
$1,000 $ 1.21 $ 4.90 $ 1.21 $ ‐ $ 1.00 $ 1.00
base fee @
1,000,000 $ 3,141.00 $ 5,795.00 $ 3,141.00 $ 785.00 $ 1,571.00 $ 2,356.00 each additional $1,000 or fraction thereof
each add'l
$1,000 $ 3.14 $ 4.90 $ 3.14 $ 1.00 $ 2.00 $ 2.00
B. MISCELLANEOUS FEES ‐ FLAT RATE PERMITS [3]
3 Above Ground Storage Tank per permit $ 966.00 NEW $ 966.00 $ 242.00 $ 483.00 $ 725.00 4 Awning or Canopy per permit $ 846.00 NEW $ 846.00 $ 212.00 $ 423.00 $ 635.005 Battery Storage System Residential per permit $ 846.00 NEW $ 846.00 $ 212.00 $ 423.00 $ 635.00 Commercial per permit $ 1,450.00 NEW $ 1,450.00 $ 363.00 $ 725.00 $ 1,088.00 6 Bollards (up to 4 pieces) per permit $ 966.00 NEW $ 966.00 $ 242.00 $ 483.00 $ 725.00 7 Cell Site
New Tower each $ 1,812.00 NEW $ 1,812.00 $ 453.00 $ 906.00 $ 1,359.00 Rooftop Installation each $ 1,570.00 NEW $ 1,570.00 $ 393.00 $ 785.00 $ 1,178.00Antenna/Equipment Replacement each $ 1,450.00 NEW $ 1,450.00 $ 363.00 $ 725.00 $ 1,088.00 8 Decks/Balcony [5]
Engineered ‐ Special Design
First 300 s.f. flat $ 1,570.00 NEW $ 1,570.00 $ 393.00 $ 785.00 $ 1,178.00 Each additional 100 s.f. each $ 503.00 NEW $ 503.00 $ 126.00 $ 252.00 $ 377.00 Non‐Engineered ‐ City Standard
First 300 s.f. flat $ 1,208.00 NEW $ 1,208.00 $ 302.00 $ 604.00 $ 906.00 Each additional 100 s.f. each $ 140.00 NEW $ 140.00 $ 35.00 $ 70.00 $ 105.00 9 Demolition of Building
Residential each $ 725.00 $ 153.00 $ 725.00 $ 181.00 $ 363.00 $ 544.00 Commercial each $ 725.00 NEW $ 725.00 $ 181.00 $ 363.00 $ 544.00 $500,000$1,000,000$50,000$100,000
DRAFT

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Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
[Deposit]
Amount
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%

BUILDING, SAFETY & INSPECTION
Fee Name
10 Electric Vehicle Charging Station
Residential each $ 483.00 NEW $ 483.00 $ 121.00 $ 242.00 $ 362.00 Commercial, first each $ 1,087.00 NEW $ 1,087.00 $ 272.00 $ 544.00 $ 815.00 Commercial, each additional each $ 544.00 NEW $ 544.00 $ 136.00 $ 272.00 $ 408.00 11 Fence or Free Standing Wall
First 100 l.f. flat $ 1,208.00 $ 49.00 $ 1,208.00 $ 302.00 $ 604.00 $ 906.00 Each additional 100 l.f. each $ 60.00 NEW $ 60.00 $ 15.00 $ 30.00 $ 45.00 12 Fire Damage Repair per permit $ 2,174.00 NEW $ 2,174.00 $ 544.00 $ 1,087.00 $ 1,631.00 13 Fireplace Repair/Replace per permit $ 1,087.00 NEW $ 1,087.00 $ 272.00 $ 544.00 $ 815.0014 Flagpole each $ 966.00 NEW $ 966.00 $ 242.00 $ 483.00 $ 725.00 15 Foundation Repair
Residential per permit $ 1,329.00 NEW $ 1,329.00 $ 332.00 $ 665.00 $ 997.00 Commercial per permit $ 1,329.00 NEW $ 1,329.00 $ 332.00 $ 665.00 $ 997.00 16 Greenhouse per permit $ 1,450.00 NEW $ 1,450.00 $ 363.00 $ 725.00 $ 1,088.0017 Manufactured House/Building Residential per permit $ 2,295.00 NEW $ 2,295.00 $ 574.00 $ 1,148.00 $ 1,721.00Commercial per permit $ 2,295.00 NEW $ 2,295.00 $ 574.00 $ 1,148.00 $ 1,721.00 18 Partition/Wall ‐ Interior/Non‐Structural < 100' per permit $ 1,208.00 NEW $ 1,208.00 $ 302.00 $ 604.00 $ 906.0019 Patio Cover [5] Engineered ‐ Special Design
Frame with Cover flat $ 1,450.00 NEW $ 1,450.00 $ 363.00 $ 725.00 $ 1,088.00 Frame with Cover & Walls each $ 1,450.00 NEW $ 1,450.00 $ 363.00 $ 725.00 $ 1,088.00 Non‐Engineered ‐ City Standard
Frame with Cover flat $ 1,208.00 $ 115.00 $ 1,208.00 $ 302.00 $ 604.00 $ 906.00 Frame with Cover & Walls each $ 1,208.00 NEW $ 1,208.00 $ 302.00 $ 604.00 $ 906.00 20 Remodel ‐ Residential
Kitchen/Bath each $ 1,933.00 NEW $ 1,933.00 $ 483.00 $ 967.00 $ 1,450.00Other ‐ up to 500 s.f. each $ 1,933.00 NEW $ 1,933.00 $ 483.00 $ 967.00 $ 1,450.00Other ‐ each additional 100 s.f. each $ 302.00 NEW $ 302.00 $ 76.00 $ 151.00 $ 227.00 21 Repairs ‐ Miscellaneous
Residential per permit $ 1,208.00 NEW $ 1,208.00 $ 302.00 $ 604.00 $ 906.00 Commercial per permit $ 1,208.00 NEW $ 1,208.00 $ 302.00 $ 604.00 $ 906.00 DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
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Fee
Amount
Current Fee
[Deposit]
Amount
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%

BUILDING, SAFETY & INSPECTION
Fee Name
22 Retaining Wall [5]
Engineered ‐ Special Design
First 100 l.f. flat $ 1,329.00 NEW $ 1,329.00 $ 332.00 $ 665.00 $ 997.00 Each additional 100 l.f. each $ 60.00 NEW $ 60.00 $ 15.00 $ 30.00 $ 45.00 Non‐Engineered ‐ City Standard
First 100 l.f. flat $ 1,208.00 NEW $ 1,208.00 $ 302.00 $ 604.00 $ 906.00 Each additional 100 l.f. each $ 60.00 NEW $ 60.00 $ 15.00 $ 30.00 $ 45.00 23 Reroofing
First 10 squares per permit $ 604.00 $ 118.00 $ 604.00 $ 151.00 $ 302.00 $ 453.00 Each additional 10 squares per permit $ ‐ 60.00 $ $ 60.00 $ 15.00 $ 30.00 $ 45.00 24 Roof Structure Repair/Reinforcement
Residential each $ 966.00 NEW $ 966.00 $ 242.00 $ 483.00 $ 725.00 Commercial each $ 1,450.00 NEW $ 1,450.00 $ 363.00 $ 725.00 $ 1,088.00 25 Saunas (Steam) per permit $ 604.00 NEW $ 604.00 $ 151.00 $ 302.00 $ 453.00 26 Shed per permit $ 1,570.00 NEW $ 1,570.00 $ 393.00 $ 785.00 $ 1,178.00 27 Siding/Stucco
First 100 l.f. flat $ 604.00 $ 53.00 $ 604.00 $ 151.00 $ 302.00 $ 453.00 Each additional 100 l.f. each $ 60.00 NEW $ 60.00 $ 15.00 $ 30.00 $ 45.00 28 Sign
Wall ‐ Illuminated per permit $ 725.00 NEW $ 725.00 $ 181.00 $ 363.00 $ 544.00 Wall ‐ Non‐illuminated per permit $ 725.00 NEW $ 725.00 $ 181.00 $ 363.00 $ 544.00Monument ‐ illuminated per permit $ 1,208.00 NEW $ 1,208.00 $ 302.00 $ 604.00 $ 906.00 Monument ‐ Non‐illuminated per permit $ 1,087.00 NEW $ 1,087.00 $ 272.00 $ 544.00 $ 815.00 29 Up to 1 acre per permit $ 1,933.00 NEW 1,933.00 $ $ 483.00 $ 967.00 $ 1,450.00 2‐10 acres per permit $ 3,020.00 NEW 3,020.00 $ $ 755.00 $ 1,510.00 $ 2,265.00 Over 10 acres per permit $ 3,866.00 NEW 3,866.00 $ $ 967.00 $ 1,933.00 $ 2,900.00 Each additional 10 acres or fraction thereof per permit $ 1,329.00 NEW $ 1,329.00 $ 332.00 $ 665.00 $ 997.00 30 Skylight
Residential each $ 966.00 NEW 966.00 $ $ 242.00 $ 483.00 $ 725.00 Commercial each $ 1,208.00 NEW 1,208.00 $ $ 302.00 $ 604.00 $ 906.00 Site Improvements ‐ This includes substantial development of private parking lots which are processed separate of the structure and include any combination of the following:

Underground utilities, parking lot lighting, accessible path of travel analysis and compliance with the City's parking and driveway standards.

DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
[Deposit]
Amount
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%

BUILDING, SAFETY & INSPECTION
Fee Name
31 Solar Systems [5]
Residential Roof Mount (Up to 15 kW) flat $ ‐ $ 77.00 $ 450.00 $ ‐ $ ‐ $ ‐ Per kW over 15 kW per kW $ ‐ NEW $ 15.00 $ ‐ $ ‐ $ ‐
Add Residential Battery Back‐Up each $ 483.00 NEW 483.00 $ $ 121.00 $ 242.00 $ 362.00 Add Residential Panel Upgrade each $ 483.00 NEW 483.00 $ $ 121.00 $ 242.00 $ 362.00 Add Reverse Tilt System/Ground Mount each $ 725.00 NEW 725.00 $ $ 181.00 $ 363.00 $ 544.00 Commercial (Up to 50 kW) flat $ ‐ NEW 1,000.00 $ $ ‐ $ ‐ $ ‐ Per kW between 51kW ‐ 250kW per kW $ ‐ NEW $ 7.00 $ ‐ $ ‐ $ ‐ Per kW above 250kW per kW $ ‐ NEW $ 5.00 $ ‐ $ ‐ $ ‐
32 Spa or Hot Tub per permit $ 966.00 NEW 966.00 $ $ 242.00 $ 483.00 $ 725.00 33 Spray Booth Install/Clean Room per permit $ 1,450.00 NEW 1,450.00 $ $ 363.00 $ 725.00 $ 1,088.00 34 Stairs
New/Replace First Story per permit $ 1,329.00 NEW 1,329.00 $ $ 332.00 $ 665.00 $ 997.00 Additional Story per permit $ 423.00 NEW 423.00 $ $ 106.00 $ 212.00 $ 317.00 Repair per permit $ 846.00 NEW 846.00 $ $ 212.00 $ 423.00 $ 635.00 35 Storage Racks
< 8 ft, first 100 l.f. per permit $ 846.00 NEW 846.00 $ $ 212.00 $ 423.00 $ 635.00 < 8 ft, each additional 100 l.f. per permit $ 60.00 NEW $ 60.00 $ 15.00 $ 30.00 $ 45.00 > 8 ft, first 100 l.f. per permit $ 1,208.00 NEW 1,208.00 $ $ 302.00 $ 604.00 $ 906.00 > 8 ft, each additional 100 l.f. per permit $ 60.00 NEW $ 60.00 $ 15.00 $ 30.00 $ 45.00 36 Swimming Pool
Residential per permit $ 1,812.00 $ 349.00 $ 1,812.00 $ 453.00 $ 906.00 $ 1,359.00 Commercial per permit $ 2,054.00 NEW 2,054.00 $ $ 514.00 $ 1,027.00 $ 1,541.00 37 Temporary Structures
Seating or Bleachers per permit $ 1,087.00 NEW 1,087.00 $ $ 272.00 $ 544.00 $ 815.00 Stages per permit $ 1,087.00 NEW 1,087.00 $ $ 272.00 $ 544.00 $ 815.00 Tents per permit $ 1,087.00 NEW 1,087.00 $ $ 272.00 $ 544.00 $ 815.00 Other per permit $ 1,087.00 NEW 1,087.00 $ $ 272.00 $ 544.00 $ 815.00 38 Trash Enclosure Install per permit $ 1,691.00 NEW 1,691.00 $ $ 423.00 $ 846.00 $ 1,268.00 39 Windows/Door (per 10 units)
Residential per permit $ 1,208.00 $ 64.00 $ 1,208.00 $ 302.00 $ 604.00 $ 906.00 First 10
Each additional 10
Commercial per permit $ 1,450.00 NEW 1,450.00 $ $ 363.00 $ 725.00 $ 1,088.00 DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
[Deposit]
Amount
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%

BUILDING, SAFETY & INSPECTION
Fee Name
C. MECHANICAL, ELECTRICAL, PLUMBING PERMIT AND PLAN CHECK FEES (WHEN ASSOCIATED WITH A BUILDING PERMIT) 40 Mechanical Permit
base fee up
to 500 s.f. $ 563.00 NEW 563.00 $ $ 141.00 $ 282.00 $ 422.00 each additional 100 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
100 s.f. $ 8.05 NEW 8.05 $ $ 2.00 $ 4.00 $ 6.00
base fee @
2,000 s.f. $ 684.00 NEW 684. $ 00 $ 171.00 $ 342.00 $ 513.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 80.53 NEW $ 80.53 $ 20.00 $ 40.00 $ 60.00
base fee @
5,000 s.f. $ 925.00 NEW 925.00 $ $ 231.00 $ 463.00 $ 694.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 104.86 NEW 104. $ 86 $ 26.00 $ 52.00 $ 79.00 base fee @
10,000 s.f. $ 1,450.00 NEW 1,450.00 $ $ 363.00 $ 725.00 $ 1,088.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 24.16 NEW $ 24.16 $ 6.00 $ 12.00 $ 18.00
base fee @
20,000 s.f. $ 1,691.00 NEW 1,691.00 $ $ 423.00 $ 846.00 $ 1,268.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 16.11 NEW $ 16.11 $ 4.00 $ 8.00 $ 12.00
base fee @
50,000 s.f. $ 2,174.00 NEW 2,174.00 $ $ 544.00 $ 1,087.00 $ 1,631.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 4.83 NEW $ 4.83 $ 1.00 $ 2.00 $ 4.00
base fee @
100,000 s.f. $ 2,416.00 NEW $ 2,416.00 $ 604.00 $ 1,208.00 $ 1,812.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 24.16 NEW $ 24.16 $ 6.00 $ 12.00 $ 18.00
41 Electrical Permit
base fee up
to 500 s.f. $ 563.00 NEW 563.00 $ $ 141.00 $ 282.00 $ 422.00 each additional 100 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
100 s.f. $ 12.08 NEW $ 12.08 $ 3.00 $ 6.00 $ 9.00
base fee @
2,000 s.f. $ 744.00 NEW 744.00 $ $ 186.00 $ 372.00 $ 558.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 100.67 NEW 100.67 $ $ 25.00 $ 50.00 $ 76.00 base fee @
5,000 s.f. $ 1,046.00 NEW 1,046. $ 00 $ 262.00 $ 523.00 $ 785.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 80.70 NEW $ 80.70 $ 20.00 $ 40.00 $ 61.00
$500$2,000$5,000$10,000$20,000$50,000$100,000$500$2,000$5,000 DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
[Deposit]
Amount
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%

BUILDING, SAFETY & INSPECTION
Fee Name
base fee @
10,000 s.f. $ 1,450.00 NEW 1,450.00 $ $ 363.00 $ 725.00 $ 1,088.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 36.24 NEW 36.24 $ $ 9.00 $ 18.00 $ 27.00
base fee @
20,000 s.f. $ 1,812.00 NEW 1,812.00 $ $ 453.00 $ 906.00 $ 1,359.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 12.08 NEW $ 12.08 $ 3.00 $ 6.00 $ 9.00
base fee @
50,000 s.f. $ 2,174.00 NEW 2,174.00 $ $ 544.00 $ 1,087.00 $ 1,631.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 12.08 NEW $ 12.08 $ 3.00 $ 6.00 $ 9.00
base fee @
100,000 s.f. $ 2,778.00 NEW 2,778. $ 00 $ 695.00 $ 1,389.00 $ 2,084.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 27.78 NEW $ 27.78 $ 7.00 $ 14.00 $ 21.00
42 Plumbing Permit
base fee up
to 500 s.f. $ 563.00 NEW 563.00 $ $ 141.00 $ 282.00 $ 422.00 each additional 100 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
100 s.f. $ 12.08 NEW $ 12.08 $ 3.00 $ 6.00 $ 9.00
base fee @
2,000 s.f. $ 744.00 NEW 744.00 $ $ 186.00 $ 372.00 $ 558.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 100.67 NEW 100.67 $ $ 25.00 $ 50.00 $ 76.00 base fee @
5,000 s.f. $ 1,046.00 NEW 1,046.00 $ $ 262.00 $ 523.00 $ 785.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 80.70 NEW $ 80.70 $ 20.00 $ 40.00 $ 61.00
base fee @
10,000 s.f. $ 1,450.00 NEW 1,450.00 $ $ 363.00 $ 725.00 $ 1,088.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 36.24 NEW $ 36.24 $ 9.00 $ 18.00 $ 27.00
base fee @
20,000 s.f. $ 1,812.00 NEW $ 1,812.00 $ 453.00 $ 906.00 $ 1,359.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 12.08 NEW $ 12.08 $ 3.00 $ 6.00 $ 9.00
base fee @
50,000 s.f. $ 2,174.00 NEW 2,174.00 $ $ 544.00 $ 1,087.00 $ 1,631.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 12.08 NEW $ 12.08 $ 3.00 $ 6.00 $ 9.00
$20,000$50,000$50,000$100,000$500$2,000$5,000$10,000$20,000$10,000 DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
[Deposit]
Amount
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%

BUILDING, SAFETY & INSPECTION
Fee Name
base fee @
100,000 s.f. $ 2,778.00 NEW 2,778.00 $ $ 695.00 $ 1,389.00 $ 2,084.00 each additional 1,000 s.f. or fraction thereof
each add'l
1,000 s.f. $ 27.78 NEW 27.78 $ $ 7.00 $ 14.00 $ 21.00
D. MECHANICAL, ELECTRICAL, PLUMBING PERMIT AND PLAN CHECK FEES (WHEN NOT ASSOCIATED WITH A BUILDING PERMIT) 43 Combination Stand Alone MPE Permit
Tier 1: 2 ‐ 3 items from the list below per permit $ 664.00 NEW 664.00 $ $ 166.00 $ 332.00 $ 498.00 Tier 2: 4 ‐ 6 items per permit $ 1,087.00 NEW 1,087.00 $ $ 272.00 $ 544.00 $ 815.00 Tier 3: Greater than 6 items ‐ please see Valuation Tables per permit See
Valuation
See
Valuation $ ‐ $ ‐ $ ‐
44 Singular Mechanical Permits
FAU less than 100,000 Btu/h each $ 483.00 $ 25.00 $ 483.00 $ 121.00 $ 242.00 $ 362.00 FAU greater than 100,000 Btu/h each $ 604.00 $ 22.00 $ 604.00 $ 151.00 $ 302.00 $ 453.00 Mechanical Alteration / Repair Minor (1 inspection assumed) each $ 483.00 $ 23.00 $ 483.00 $ 121.00 $ 242.00 $ 362.00 Mechanical Alteration / Repair Major (2 or more inspection assumed) each $ 725.00 $ 23.00 $ 725.00 $ 181.00 $ 363.00 $ 544.00 Hood/Vent System each $ 1,208.00 $ 18.00 $ 1,208.00 $ 302.00 $ 604.00 $ 906.00 45 Singular Electrical Permits
Generator each $ 604.00 NEW 604.00 $ $ 151.00 $ 302.00 $ 453.00 Services of 600 volts or less and over 400 amperes to 1000 amperes in rating each $ 966.00 $ 122.00 $ 966.00 $ 242.00 $ 483.00 $ 725.00 Services over 600 volts or over 1000 amperes in rating each $ 1,087.00 NEW 1,087.00 $ $ 272.00 $ 544.00 $ 815.00Services under 600 volts, 400 amps or less each $ 604.00 $ 102.00 $ 604.00 $ 151.00 $ 302.00 $ 453.00 Electric Meter Reset each $ 604.00 NEW 604.00 $ $ 151.00 $ 302.00 $ 453.00 Subpanel each $ 604.00 NEW 604.00 $ $ 151.00 $ 302.00 $ 453.00 Temporary Power each $ 604.00 $ 34.00 $ 604.00 $ 151.00 $ 302.00 $ 453.00 Lighting Poles $ ‐ $ ‐ $ ‐
First pole each $ 846.00 NEW 846.00 $ $ 212.00 $ 423.00 $ 635.00 Each additional each $ 242.00 NEW 242.00 $ $ 61.00 $ 121.00 $ 182.00 Other Minor Electrical Alteration/Repair (1 inspection assumed) each $ 483.00 NEW 483.00 $ $ 121.00 $ 242.00 $ 362.00 Other Major Electrical Alteration/Repair (2 or more inspections assumed) each $ 846.00 NEW 846.00 $ $ 212.00 $ 423.00 $ 635.00 46 Singular Plumbing Permits
Water Heater each $ 483.00 $ 12.00 $ 483.00 $ 121.00 $ 242.00 $ 362.00 Water Service each $ 846.00 NEW 846.00 $ $ 212.00 $ 423.00 $ 635.00 Sewer/Septic each $ 604.00 $ 25.00 $ 604.00 $ 151.00 $ 302.00 $ 453.00 Trap/Interceptor each $ 966.00 $ 12.00 $ 966.00 $ 242.00 $ 483.00 $ 725.00 Gas Line Air Test each $ 604.00 $ 12.00 $ 604.00 $ 151.00 $ 302.00 $ 453.00 Other Minor Plumbing Alteration/Repair (1 inspection assumed) each $ 483.00 $ 12.00 $ 483.00 $ 121.00 $ 242.00 $ 362.00 Other Major Plumbing Alteration/Repair (2 or more inspections assumed) each $ 846.00 $ 12.00 $ 846.00 $ 212.00 $ 423.00 $ 635.00$100,000 DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
[Deposit]
Amount
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%

BUILDING, SAFETY & INSPECTION
Fee Name
RECON
Mechanical $ 100.00 $ 58.00 $ 100.00 $ 25.00 $ 50.00 $ 75.00 Plumbing $ 189.00 $ 109.00 $ 189.00 $ 47.00 $ 95.00 $ 142.00 Electrical $ 151.00 $ 87.00 $ 151.00 $ 38.00 $ 76.00 $ 113.00 E. ADDITIONAL SERVICES
47 Additional plan review required by changes, additions, or revisions to plans During Business Hours hourly $ 242.00 $ 140.00 $ 242.00 $ 61.00 $ 121.00 $ 182.00 After Business Hours
hourly ‐
2 hr min $ 242.00 $ 140.00 $ 242.00 $ 61.00 $ 121.00 $ 182.00 48 Additional inspections / Re‐inspections
During Business Hours hourly $ 242.00 $ 140.00 $ 242.00 $ 61.00 $ 121.00 $ 182.00After Business Hours hourly $ 242.00 $ 140.00 $ 242.00 $ 61.00 $ 121.00 $ 182.00 49 Building Moving flat $ 1,450.00 $ 150.00 $ 1,450.00 $ 363.00 $ 725.00 $ 1,088.00 50 Imaging Fee each $ 4.00 $ 2.00 $ 4.00 $ 1.00 $ 2.00 $ 3.00 51 Temporary Certificate of Occupancy each $ 242.00 NEW 242.00 $ $ 61.00 $ 121.00 $ 182.00 52 Duplication of Plans each $ 242.00 NEW 242.00 $ $ 61.00 $ 121.00 $ 182.00 53 Review of Alternative Materials each $ 242.00 NEW $ 242.00 $ 61.00 $ 121.00 $ 182.00 54 Permit Extension Request each $ 242.00 NEW 242.00 $ $ 61.00 $ 121.00 $ 182.00 55 Investigation Fee [4] each
2x Permit
Fee
2x Permit
Fee $ ‐ ‐ $ ‐ $
56 Refund Processing each
20% of
permit fee
20% of
permit fee $ ‐ $ ‐ $ ‐
57 California Building Standards[4] each
$1 ‐ $25,000 flat $ 1.00 $ ‐ 1.00 $ ‐ $ ‐ $$25,001 ‐ $50,000 flat $ 2.00 $ ‐ 2.00 $ ‐ $ ‐ $ $50,001 ‐ $75,000 flat $ 3.00 $ ‐ 3.00 $ ‐ $ ‐ $ $75,001 ‐ $100,000 flat $ 4.00 $ ‐ 4.00 $ ‐ $ ‐ $ Every $25,000 or fraction thereof above $100,000 flat $ 1.00 $ ‐ 1.00 $ ‐ $ ‐ $ DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
[Deposit]
Amount
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount Fee @ 25% Fee @ 50% Fee @ 75%

BUILDING, SAFETY & INSPECTION
Fee Name
58 SMIP Fee [4]
Single Family Residential each
.01% of
valuation
.01% of
valuation $ ‐ ‐ $ ‐ $
Commercial/Multi‐Family/Industrial each
.021 % of
valuation
.021 % of
valuation $ ‐ ‐ $ ‐ $
59 For services requested of City staff which have no fee listed in this fee schedule During Business Hours hourly $ 242.00 $ 140.00 $ 242.00 $ 61.00 $ 121.00 $ 182.00 After Business Hours hourly $ 242.00 $ 140.00 $ 242.00 $ 61.00 $ 121.00 $ 182.00 [1] Sourced from "City of Imperial Beach Master Fee Schedule.pdf" provided by City [2] MEP's charged separately[3] MEP's included[4] Fee Set By State[5] Fees set by GC 66015 Notes
DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
[Deposit]
Amount [1]
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Fee @
25%
Fee @
50%
Fee @
75%
1 Release of Lien each $ 100.00 NEW $ 100.00 $ 25.00 $ 50.00 $ 75.00 2 Short Term Rental [3] each $ 200.00 $ 100.00 $ 200.00 $ 50.00 $ 100.00 $ 150.00 3 SB 721 each $ 100.00 NEW $ 100.00 $ 25.00 $ 50.00 $ 75.00 4 Lien Search each $ 50.00 $ 263.00 $ 50.00 $ 13.00 $ 25.00 $ 38.005 Hearing Officer [2] flat $ 135.00 $ 135.00 $ ‐ ‐ $ ‐ $ 4 For services requested of City staff which have no fee listed in this fee schedule hourly $ 100.00 $ 87.00 $ 100.00 [1] Sourced from "City of Imperial Beach Master Fee Schedule.pdf" provided by City [2] Service provided by third party consultant
[3] Applies to new short‐term business license application.

Notes

CODE COMPLIANCE
Fee Name
DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Fee @
25%
Fee @
50%
Fee @
75%
1 Enroachment Permits
Tier 1A: (Storage Pod/Trash Containers/Landscaping) each 181.00 $ $ 25.00 $ 181.00 $ 45.00 $ 91.00 $ 136.00 Tier 1B: (Fencing/Driveways) each 253.00 $ $ 150.00 $ 253.00 $ 63.00 $ 127.00 $ 190.00 Tier 2: (Sidewalk/Approaches/Alley & Street Utility Connections) each 615.00 $ $ 150.00 $ 615.00 $ 154.00 $ 308.00 $ 461.00 Tier 3: (Major Projects, Review of Building)
$50,000 ‐ $500,000 each 904.00 $ NEW $ 904.00 $ 226.00 $ 452.00 $ 678.00 $500,001+ per hour 72.00 $ $ 107.00 $ 72.00 $ 18.00 $ 36.00 $ 54.00 2 Transporation Permit [2]
Single Trip flat 16.00 $ $ 16.00
Annual Permit flat 75.00 $ $ 90.00
3 Engineering Review of Planning Application per review 54.00 $ NEW $ 54.00 $ 14.00 $ 27.00 $ 41.00 4 For services requested of City staff which have no fee listed in this fee schedule hourly 72.00 $ $ 107.00 $ 72.00 [1] Sourced from "City of Imperial Beach Master Fee Schedule.pdf" provided by City [2] Fee set by State
[3] Service provided by third party consultant

ENGINEERING & PUBLIC WORKS
Fee Name
Notes
DRAFT

Page 282 of 367 ends

Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Proposed
NON‐

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Fee @
25%
Fee @
50%
Fee @
75%
1 IB T‐Shirts [2]
City Employees each $ 18.00 $ 7.00 $ 18.00 $ 18.00 $ 5.00 $ 9.00 $ 14.00 All Others each $ 18.00 $ 13.00 $ 18.00 $ 18.00 $ 5.00 $ 9.00 $ 14.00 A. Special Event Fees
2 Special Event Application Fee (excludes Wedding) [3]
Tier I Event flat 1,052.00 $ $ 75.00 $ 75.00 $ 90.00 $ 263.00 $ 526.00 $ 789.00 Booked 60+ days in advance (includes $25 late fee) NEW $ 100.00 $ 115.00 Booked <60 days in advance (includes $50 late fee) NEW $ 125.00 $ 140.00 Tier II Event flat 2,104.00 $ $ 150.00 $ 150.00 $ 180.00 $ 526.00 $ 1,052.00 $ 1,578.00 Booked 60+ days in advance (includes $25 late fee) NEW $ 175.00 $ 205.00 Booked <60 days in advance (includes $50 late fee) NEW $ 200.00 $ 230.00 Tier III Event flat 2,104.00 $ NEW $ 250.00 $ 300.00 $ 526.00 $ 1,052.00 $ 1,578.00 Booked 60+ days in advance (includes $25 late fee) NEW $ 275.00 $ 325.00 Booked <60 days in advance (includes $50 late fee) NEW $ 300.00 $ 350.00 3 Wedding
Park Use Permit (Processing) Fee
Non‐Commercial flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 316.00 $ 400.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 Commercial flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 350.00 $ 420.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 4 Park and Beach Venue
Park Venue
50 or less guests flat 1,052.00 $ NEW $ 500.00 $ 600.00 $ 263.00 $ 526.00 $ 789.00 More than 50 guests flat 1,157.00 $ NEW $ 800.00 $ 960.00 $ 289.00 $ 579.00 $ 868.00 Premier Beach Venue
50 or less guests flat 1,052.00 $ NEW $ 750.00 $ 900.00 $ 263.00 $ 526.00 $ 789.00 More than 50 guests flat 1,157.00 $ NEW $ 900.00 $ 1,080.00 $ 289.00 $ 579.00 $ 868.00

RECREATION
Fee Name
DRAFT

Page 283 of 367 ends

Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Proposed
NON‐

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Fee @
25%
Fee @
50%
Fee @
75%

RECREATION
Fee Name
5 Commercial Vendor
Parks/Beach Application (Processing) Fee flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 316.00 $ 379.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 Park Space Rental Fee
First hour flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 158.00 $ 190.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 Each additional hour per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 79.00 $ 95.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 Beach Area Rental Fee $ ‐ ‐ $ ‐ $ First hour flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 158.00 $ 190.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 Each additional hour per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 79.00 $ 95.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 Snack Bar Rental Fee per day 316.00 $ NEW $ 237.00 $ 284.00 $ 79.00 $ 158.00 $ 237.00 Block Party Fee flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 337.00 $ 421.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 6 Commercial Filming & Photography Permit (Road Closure) $ ‐ ‐ $ ‐ $ Application (Processing) Fee $ 2,104.00 NEW $ 250.00 $ 300.00 $ 526.00 $ 1,052.00 $ 1,578.00 Submitted 7+ days in advance flat NEW $ 350.00 $ 420.00 Submitted 4‐6 days in advance flat NEW $ 375.00 $ 450.00Submitted 3 days or less in advance flat NEW $ 400.00 $ 480.00 Site Use Fee
Pier Plaza/Dunes/Beach (Premier Downtown Venue Space) per day 2,525.00 $ NEW $ 1,500.00 $ 1,800.00 $ 631.00 $ 1,263.00 $ 1,894.00 Street per day 2,525.00 $ NEW $ 1,000.00 $ 1,200.00 $ 631.00 $ 1,263.00 $ 1,894.00Park per day 2,525.00 $ NEW $ 1,500.00 $ 1,800.00 $ 631.00 $ 1,263.00 $ 1,894.00 7 Block Party Permit (Processing) Fee flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 150.00 $ 180.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 8 Park Rental Fee
Weekday
Pier Plaza/Dunes/Beach (Premier Downtown Venue Space)
< 50 per day 1,052.00 $ NEW $ 175.00 $ 210.00 $ 263.00 $ 526.00 $ 789.00 50 to 100 per day 1,052.00 $ NEW $ 275.00 $ 330.00 $ 263.00 $ 526.00 $ 789.00 Regular Park
< 50 per day 526.00 $ NEW $ 75.00 $ 90.00 $ 132.00 $ 263.00 $ 395.00 50 to 100 per day 526.00 $ NEW $ 125.00 $ 150.00 $ 132.00 $ 263.00 $ 395.00 101 to 500 per day 631.00 $ NEW $ 250.00 $ 300.00 $ 158.00 $ 316.00 $ 473.00 Premier Park
< 50 per day 631.00 $ NEW $ 125.00 $ 150.00 $ 158.00 $ 316.00 $ 473.00 50 to 100 per day 631.00 $ NEW $ 200.00 $ 240.00 $ 158.00 $ 316.00 $ 473.00101 to 500 per day 736.00 $ NEW $ 275.00 $ 330.00 $ 184.00 $ 368.00 $ 552.00 DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Proposed
NON‐

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Fee @
25%
Fee @
50%
Fee @
75%

RECREATION
Fee Name
Weekend
Pier Plaza/Dunes/Beach (Premier Downtown Venue Space)
< 50 per day 1,334.00 $ NEW $ 200.00 $ 240.00 $ 334.00 $ 667.00 $ 1,001.00 50 to 100 per day 1,334.00 $ NEW $ 300.00 $ 360.00 $ 334.00 $ 667.00 $ 1,001.00 Regular Park
< 50 per day 727.00 $ NEW $ 100.00 $ 120.00 $ 182.00 $ 364.00 $ 545.00 50 to 100 per day 727.00 $ NEW $ 150.00 $ 180.00 $ 182.00 $ 364.00 $ 545.00101 to 500 per day 849.00 $ NEW $ 275.00 $ 330.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00 Premier Park
< 50 per day 849.00 $ NEW $ 150.00 $ 180.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00 50 to 100 per day 849.00 $ NEW $ 175.00 $ 210.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00101 to 500 per day 970.00 $ NEW $ 300.00 $ 360.00 $ 243.00 $ 485.00 $ 728.00 9 Air Jump
Fee per Inflatable flat 631.00 $ $ 25.00 $ 50.00 $ 60.00 $ 158.00 $ 316.00 $ 473.00Security/Cleaning Deposit [4] flat $ 25.00 $ 200.00 $ 240.00 $ ‐ $ ‐ $ ‐ 10 Event Deposit [4]
Special Event deposit NEW $ 1,000.00 $ 1,200.00
Park Use deposit NEW $ 500.00 $ 600.00 $ ‐ $ ‐ $ ‐
$ ‐ $ ‐ $ ‐
11 Sound Amplification Permit per day 210.00 $ $ 36.00 $ 100.00 $ 120.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 12 Generator Use Fee flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 60.00 $ 72.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 13 Tent/Canopy Fee flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 50.00 $ 60.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.0014 Multiple Day Event First Day flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 325.00 $ 390.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 Each Additional Day each 526.00 $ NEW $ 250.00 $ 300.00 $ 132.00 $ 263.00 $ 395.00 15 Event Series flat 631.00 $ NEW $ 475.00 $ 570.00 $ 158.00 $ 316.00 $ 473.0016 Bollard/Barricade Installation Fee per bollard
segment $ 158.00 NEW $ 45.00 $ 54.00 $ 40.00 $ 79.00 $ 119.00 17 Reserved Parking Fee (Street Parking) flat 158.00 $ NEW $ 120.00 $ 144.00 $ 40.00 $ 79.00 $ 119.00 18 Parking Lot Rental (entire City owned lot) flat 316.00 $ NEW $ 250.00 $ 300.00 $ 79.00 $ 158.00 $ 237.00 DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Proposed
NON‐

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Fee @
25%
Fee @
50%
Fee @
75%

RECREATION
Fee Name
19 Electrical Fee
Processing Fee flat 105.00 $ NEW $ 88.00 $ 105.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 Cord Runner Rental [4] each NEW NEW $ 25.00 $ 30.00
20 Power/Steam Washing Deposit deposit 105.00 $ NEW $ 105.00 $ 105.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 21 Cleaning Fee
Special Event flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 175.00 $ 210.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 Park Use flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 150.00 $ 180.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00Commercial Cleaning Fee flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 210.00 $ 210.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 22 Event Deposit [4]
< 30 days deposit NEW NEW $ 1,250.00 $ 1,500.00
30+ days deposit NEW NEW $ 1,000.00 $ 1,200.00
23 Alcohol Fee
< 100 guests per event 316.00 $ NEW $ 200.00 $ 240.00 $ 79.00 $ 158.00 $ 237.00 100+ guests per event 421.00 $ NEW $ 300.00 $ 360.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 Security Guard Fee [6] actual cost actual cost actual cost actual cost 24 Parks & Events Staffing Fees (during event)
Lifeguards per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 105.00 $ 105.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 Fire ‐ Medical aid per hour 173.00 $ NEW $ 173.00 $ 173.00 $ 43.00 $ 87.00 $ 130.00Fire Marshal per hour 173.00 $ NEW $ 173.00 $ 173.00 $ 43.00 $ 87.00 $ 130.00Park Ranger per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 105.00 $ 105.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00Tidelands/Public Works per hour 110.00 $ NEW $ 110.00 $ 110.00 $ 28.00 $ 55.00 $ 83.00Recreation Staff per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 105.00 $ 105.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 25 Banner in Right‐of‐Way flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 25.00 $ 30.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 26 Light Pole Banner
First 2 flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 210.00 $ 252.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 Each Additional per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 52.00 $ 62.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 27 Overnight Reservation Fee (Early Setup) flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 175.00 $ 210.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 28 Signage/Barricade Rental Fees (< 200 attendance) flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 150.00 $ 180.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Proposed
NON‐

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Fee @
25%
Fee @
50%
Fee @
75%

RECREATION
Fee Name
29 Dance Floor Rental Fee flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 80.00 $ 96.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 30 Stage/Riser Fee flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 60.00 $ 72.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.0031 Patio Heater Fee flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 40.00 $ 48.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.0032 Race Fee flat 842.00 $ NEW $ 700.00 $ 840.00 $ 211.00 $ 421.00 $ 632.00 33 Vendor Fee flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 50.00 $ 60.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 34 Temporary Business License (Special Event/Farmers Market) flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 10.00 $ 12.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.0035 Use of Dempsey Center in conjunction with event flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 375.00 $ 421.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 36 Animal Fee flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 100.00 $ 120.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 B. Facility Rental Fees
37 Dempsey Center
During Work Hours ‐ minimum of 2 hour rental
Meeting Room ‐ First 2 hours flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 60.00 $ 72.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 Meeting Room ‐ Each additional hour per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 30.00 $ 36.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 After Work Hours ‐ minimum of 4 hour rental
Meeting Room ‐ First 4 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 184.00 $ 221.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00 Meeting Room ‐ Each additional hour per hour 121.00 $ NEW $ 46.00 $ 55.00 $ 30.00 $ 61.00 $ 91.00 38 Sports Park Community Center
During Work Hours ‐ minimum of 2 hour rental
Meeting Room ‐ First 2 hours flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 75.00 $ 90.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 Full Court Sports Gym ‐ First 2 hours flat 526.00 $ NEW $ 130.00 $ 156.00 $ 132.00 $ 263.00 $ 395.00 Meeting Space / Assembly Gym ‐ First 2 hours flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 75.00 $ 90.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 Outdoor Court ‐ First 2 hours flat 526.00 $ NEW $ 40.00 $ 48.00 $ 132.00 $ 263.00 $ 395.00All Rooms ‐ Each additional hour per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 30.00 $ 36.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 After Work Hours ‐ minimum of 4 hour rental
Meeting Room ‐ First 4 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 125.00 $ 150.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00 Full Court Sports Gym ‐ First 4 hours flat 970.00 $ NEW $ 260.00 $ 312.00 $ 243.00 $ 485.00 $ 728.00Meeting Space / Assembly Gym ‐ First 4 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 125.00 $ 150.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00Outdoor Court ‐ First 4 hours flat 970.00 $ NEW $ 80.00 $ 96.00 $ 243.00 $ 485.00 $ 728.00 All Rooms ‐ Each additional hour per hour 121.00 $ NEW $ 60.00 $ 72.00 $ 30.00 $ 61.00 $ 91.00 DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Proposed
NON‐

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Fee @
25%
Fee @
50%
Fee @
75%

RECREATION
Fee Name
39 Community Room Rentals (City Hall)
During Work Hours ‐ minimum of 2 hour rental
North Bay ‐ First 2 hours flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 60.00 $ 72.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 Center Bay ‐ First 2 hours flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 60.00 $ 72.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00South Bay ‐ First 2 hours flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 60.00 $ 72.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00All Bay ‐ First 2 hours flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 180.00 $ 216.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 All Rooms ‐ Each additional hour per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 60.00 $ 72.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 After Work Hours ‐ minimum of 4 hour rental
North Bay ‐ First 4 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 100.00 $ 120.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00 Center Bay ‐ First 4 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 100.00 $ 120.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00South Bay ‐ First 4 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 100.00 $ 120.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00All Bay ‐ First 4 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 300.00 $ 360.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00All Rooms ‐ Each additional hour per hour 121.00 $ NEW $ 100.00 $ 120.00 $ 30.00 $ 61.00 $ 91.00 40 Senior Center
During Work Hours ‐ minimum of 2 hour rental
Room #1 (Large Room & Kitchen) ‐ First 2 hours flat 526.00 $ NEW $ 100.00 $ 120.00 $ 132.00 $ 263.00 $ 395.00 Room #2 (No Kitchen) ‐ First 2 hours flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 80.00 $ 96.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 Patio ‐ First 2 hours flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 70.00 $ 84.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00All Rooms ‐ Each additional hour per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 35.00 $ 42.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 After Work Hours ‐ minimum of 4 hour rental
Room #1 (Large Room & Kitchen) ‐ First 4 hours flat 970.00 $ NEW $ 150.00 $ 180.00 $ 243.00 $ 485.00 $ 728.00 Room #2 (No Kitchen) ‐ First 4 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 125.00 $ 150.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00Patio ‐ First 4 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 120.00 $ 144.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00All Rooms ‐ Each additional hour per hour 121.00 $ NEW $ 60.00 $ 72.00 $ 30.00 $ 61.00 $ 91.00 41 Palm Community Center (PCC)
During Work Hours ‐ minimum of 2 hour rental
Meeting Room
Meeting Room ‐ First 2 hours flat 526.00 $ NEW $ 95.00 $ 114.00 $ 132.00 $ 263.00 $ 395.00 Meeting Room 1 & 2 ‐ First 2 hours flat 526.00 $ NEW $ 175.00 $ 210.00 $ 132.00 $ 263.00 $ 395.00 Meeting Room 2 & 3 ‐ First 2 hours flat 526.00 $ NEW $ 175.00 $ 210.00 $ 132.00 $ 263.00 $ 395.00All Meeting Rooms (1, 2 & 3) ‐ First 2 hours flat 526.00 $ NEW $ 230.00 $ 276.00 $ 132.00 $ 263.00 $ 395.00 Classrooms
Classroom 1 ‐ First 2 hours flat 526.00 $ NEW $ 95.00 $ 114.00 $ 132.00 $ 263.00 $ 395.00 Classroom 2 ‐ First 2 hours flat 526.00 $ NEW $ 95.00 $ 114.00 $ 132.00 $ 263.00 $ 395.00 Outdoor Courtyard ‐ First 2 hours flat 526.00 $ NEW $ 55.00 $ 66.00 $ 132.00 $ 263.00 $ 395.00All Rooms ‐ Each additional hour per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 45.00 $ 54.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Proposed
NON‐

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Fee @
25%
Fee @
50%
Fee @
75%

RECREATION
Fee Name
After Work Hours ‐ minimum of 4 hour rental
Meeting Room
Meeting Room ‐ First 2 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 145.00 $ 174.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00 Meeting Room 1 & 2 ‐ First 4 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 225.00 $ 270.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00Meeting Room 2 & 3 ‐ First 4 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 225.00 $ 270.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00All Meeting Rooms (1, 2 & 3) ‐ First 4 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 280.00 $ 336.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00 Classrooms
Classroom 1 ‐ First 4 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 145.00 $ 174.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00 Classroom 2 ‐ First 4 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 145.00 $ 174.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00 Outdoor Courtyard ‐ First 4 hours flat 849.00 $ NEW $ 105.00 $ 126.00 $ 212.00 $ 425.00 $ 637.00All Rooms ‐ Each additional hour per hour 121.00 $ NEW $ 90.00 $ 108.00 $ 30.00 $ 61.00 $ 91.00 C. Facility Fees
42 Application (Processing) Fee $ 210.00 NEW $ 25.00 $ 30.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 43 Birthday Party Package
Weekday Packages per hour 210.00 $ NEW $ 125.00 $ 150.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 Weekend/Holidays/Evenings Packages per hour 316.00 $ NEW $ 225.00 $ 270.00 $ 79.00 $ 158.00 $ 237.00 44 Annual Membership Card
Under 3 flat $ 53.00 NEW $ 5.00 $ 6.00 $ 13.00 $ 27.00 $ 40.00 Youth 3‐17 flat 53.00 $ NEW $ 10.00 $ 12.00 $ 13.00 $ 27.00 $ 40.00 Adult 18‐60 flat $ 53.00 NEW $ 15.00 $ 18.00 $ 13.00 $ 27.00 $ 40.00Senior (Over 60) flat 53.00 $ NEW $ 6.00 $ 7.00 $ 13.00 $ 27.00 $ 40.00 Replacement Card flat $ 53.00 NEW $ 3.00 $ 4.00 $ 13.00 $ 27.00 $ 40.00 45 Staffing Fees for Room Rentals and Special Event Assistance Park Rangers per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 35.00 $ 42.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 Parks & Rec Staff per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 35.00 $ 42.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 46 Damage Deposit [2] deposit NEW $ 500.00 $ 600.00
47 Audio Visual Equipment flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 125.00 $ 150.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 48 Stage/Riser Fee flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 50.00 $ 60.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 49 Patio Heater Fee flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 40.00 $ 48.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Proposed
NON‐

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Fee @
25%
Fee @
50%
Fee @
75%

RECREATION
Fee Name
50 Commercial Facility Use for Commercial Vendors [5]
Application (Processing) Fee flat 316.00 $ NEW $ 40.00 $ 50.00 $ 79.00 $ 158.00 $ 237.00 City Park per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 25.00 $ 35.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 One (1) Hour $ 25.00 $ 35.00Two (2) Hours $ 50.00 $ 70.00 Three (3) Hours $ 75.00 $ 90.00
Four (4) Hours $ 100.00 $ 120.00
Pier Plaza / Beach per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 35.00 $ 45.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 One (1) Hour $ 35.00 $ 45.00Two (2) Hours $ 70.00 $ 90.00 Three (3) Hours $ 105.00 $ 135.00
Four (4) Hours $ 140.00 $ 180.00
51 Swimming Fees
Day pass per session 18.00 $ NEW $ 6.00 $ 8.00 $ 5.00 $ 9.00 $ 14.00 Senior/Youth per session 18.00 $ NEW $ 5.00 $ 7.00 $ 5.00 $ 9.00 $ 14.00Family Pass per session 53.00 $ NEW $ 30.00 $ 36.00 $ 13.00 $ 27.00 $ 40.00 Month Pass per month 53.00 $ NEW $ 48.00 $ 53.00 $ 13.00 $ 27.00 $ 40.00Private Swim Lessons per session 158.00 $ NEW $ 64.00 $ 77.00 $ 40.00 $ 79.00 $ 119.00Group Swim Lessons (per lesson) per
participant $ 158.00 NEW $ 16.00 $ 20.00 $ 40.00 $ 79.00 $ 119.00 Swim Team per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 105.00 $ 105.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 Lifeguard Staffing per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 105.00 $ 105.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 Each additional hour per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 105.00 $ 105.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 D. Field & Park
52 Other Fields, Parks, Beach Use Fees $ ‐ $ ‐ $ ‐
Application (Processing) Fee flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 25.00 $ 30.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 Staffing Fees for Room Rentals and Special Event Assistance Park Rangers per hour 105.00 $ NEW 35.00 $ $ 42.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 Parks & Rec Staff per hour 105.00 $ NEW 35.00 $ $ 42.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 Softball Field per hour 105.00 $ NEW 40.00 $ $ 48.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 Little League Field per hour 105.00 $ NEW 20.00 $ $ 24.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 Skate Park per hour 105.00 $ NEW 105.00 $ $ 102.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 DRAFT

Page 290 of 367 ends

Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Proposed
NON‐

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Fee @
25%
Fee @
50%
Fee @
75%

RECREATION
Fee Name
Field Rental Fee Grass and Turf (Sports)
Weekday
per hour ‐
min 3 hours $ 316.00 NEW $ 105.00 $ 126.00 $ 79.00 $ 158.00 $ 237.00 Commercial $ 230.00 $ 276.00Non‐Commercial $ 105.00 $ 126.00 Weekend
per hour ‐
min 4 hours $ 485.00 NEW $ 150.00 $ 180.00 $ 121.00 $ 243.00 $ 364.00 Commercial $ 360.00 $ 432.00Non‐Commercial $ 150.00 $ 180.00 Field Rental Fee (Events)
Weekday
per hour ‐
min 3 hours $ 316.00 NEW $ 150.00 $ 180.00 $ 79.00 $ 158.00 $ 237.00 Commercial $ 230.00 $ 276.00Non‐Commercial $ 150.00 $ 180.00 Weekend
per hour ‐
min 4 hours $ 485.00 NEW $ 105.00 $ 126.00 $ 121.00 $ 243.00 $ 364.00 Commercial $ 360.00 $ 432.00Non‐Commercial $ 105.00 $ 126.00 Field Lights
per hour ‐
min 3 hours $ 316.00 NEW $ 50.00 $ 60.00 $ 79.00 $ 158.00 $ 237.00 Turf Multi‐purpose Use Fee
Weekday per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 65.00 $ 78.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 Youth Tournament NEW $ 85.00 $ 102.00
Youth League Play (IB League 75% resident on team for resident status) NEW $ 25.00 $ 30.00Youth League Practice (IB League 75% resident on team for resident status) NEW $ 15.00 $ 18.00Youth Non‐Sport Activities (camps and etc.) NEW $ 35.00 $ 42.00 Weekend per hour 121.00 $ NEW $ 75.00 $ 90.00 $ 30.00 $ 61.00 $ 91.00 Youth Tournament NEW $ 95.00 $ 114.00
Youth League Play (IB League 75% resident on team for resident status) NEW $ 35.00 $ 42.00Youth League Practice (IB League 75% resident on team for resident status) NEW $ 25.00 $ 30.00Youth Non‐Sport Activities (camps and etc.) NEW $ 50.00 $ 60.00 Community Garden Plot Fee (annual) flat 421.00 $ NEW $ 350.00 $ 420.00 $ 105.00 $ 211.00 $ 316.00 Beach Cleanup (Application Processing Fee) flat 105.00 $ NEW $ 25.00 $ 30.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 DRAFT

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Fee
Unit/Type
Full Cost
Fee
Amount
Current Fee
/ Deposit
Amount [1]
Proposed

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Proposed
NON‐

RESIDENT
Fee /
Deposit
Amount
Fee @
25%
Fee @
50%
Fee @
75%

RECREATION
Fee Name
BBQ Rental (Under 25 attendees) per hour 210.00 $ NEW $ 50.00 $ 60.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 Food Trucks/Food Vendor Fee per hour 316.00 $ NEW $ 50.00 $ 60.00 $ 79.00 $ 158.00 $ 237.00Game Trucks Fee per hour 316.00 $ NEW $ 50.00 $ 60.00 $ 79.00 $ 158.00 $ 237.00Cleaning Fee flat 210.00 $ NEW $ 150.00 $ 180.00 $ 53.00 $ 105.00 $ 158.00 53 Fitness Center
Monthly per hour 53.00 $ NEW $ 25.00 $ 30.00 $ 13.00 $ 27.00 $ 40.00 Daily Drop‐In per day 53.00 $ NEW $ 5.00 $ 6.00 $ 13.00 $ 27.00 $ 40.00 54 Recreation Class/Camp Fees
ClassesProgramsCamps
55 For services requested of City staff which have no fee listed in this fee schedule During Business Hours per hour 105.00 $ NEW $ 105.00 $ 105.00 $ 26.00 $ 53.00 $ 79.00 After Business Hours per hour 121.00 $ NEW $ 121.00 $ 121.00 $ 30.00 $ 61.00 $ 91.00 [1] Additional fees from other City departments may apply [2] Includes sales tax
[3] Processing fee only. Additional charges for time on site will apply. [4] Set by City Policy. NBS did not evaluate.
[5] Fee is in addition to Special Event Fee
[6] Service provided by third party consultant
Notes
Fee Based on Actual Cost and Number of Participants
Fee Based on Actual Cost and Number of Participants
Fee Based on Actual Cost and Number of Participants
DRAFT

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P a g e | 1
August 2, 2023
ITEM TITLE: DISCUSSION AND DIRECTION ON RAIN BARREL AND WATER CONSERVATION PROCEDURES. (0230-70)
ORIGINATING DEPARTMENT:

Community Development
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY:

On May 3, 2023, the City Council directed staff to research and schedule for future discussion, a city-wide ordinance related to the conservation of the City’s water resources, with an emphasis on rain barrels as a water conservation method.

A rain barrel is a storage container used for rain harvesting, which is the collection, storage, and use of rainwater for landscape irrigation or other uses. Rainwater harvesting benefits communities and the environment in many ways, including reduced energy use and carbon emissions, replenishes groundwater supplies, lessens overdrawing of groundwater or reservoirs, and can improve the health of soil and plants. In addition, rainwater harvesting can benefit cities by reducing the demand on potable water supplies, conserving water during droughts, reducing stormwater runoff, and may reduce an individual’s water bills.

Rainwater collection is regulated by individual states. The California Water Code, Division 6, Part

2.4, section 10574, states that the use of rainwater collected from rooftops does not require a water right permit. California Plumbing Code Chapter 16 covers rainwater catchment systems and states that no permit is required for exterior catchment systems used for spray irrigation with a maximum storage capacity of up to 360 gallons or for a non-spray irrigation system with a maximum storage capacity of 5,000 gallons where the tank is supported directly upon grade and meets certain ratio requirements. The City of Imperial Beach does not prohibit the use of rain barrels within the required setbacks of a lot (Imperial Beach Municipal Code Chapter 19.54.

Yards).

To promote and incentivize the use of rain barrels as a rainwater harvesting method, many local agencies and conservation organizations across the nation have developed guidelines for the installation and maintenance of rain barrels and instituted rebate programs. Rain barrel guidelines can enhance available water conservation resources, could help ensure that rain barrels are being installed safely, and could provide solutions to help mitigate common issues associated with rainwater collection.

City staff has conducted research regarding existing ordinances related to rain barrels and rainwater harvesting that have been adopted by other public agencies. Staff was not able to locate an adopted ordinance, however many agencies adopt guidelines and rebate programs consistent with the American Rainwater Catchment Systems Association (ARCSA) which follows building codes. Attached to the staff report are various documents to include guidelines, best practices,

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and rebate programs from other agencies. With direction from City Council, staff could bring forward at a future meeting comprehensive guidelines for rain barrel to adopt via a resolution or develop an ordinance.

RECOMMENDATION:

Staff seeks that the City Council have a discussion and provide direction to City staff related to the best method to implement a rain barrel guide and procedures.

OPTIONS:

In addition to receiving this report and providing direction to staff on the content and creation of rain barrel guidelines or other resources, the City Council can:
 Request that staff conduct further research and schedule the item for a future City Council meeting; or
 Not recommend the creation of guidelines or resources BACKGROUND/ANALYSIS:

What is rainwater harvesting?
Many southern California residents are now harvesting rainwater to irrigate their gardens or landscaping. Rainwater harvesting is the process of capturing, storing, and making use of rain as close as possible to where it falls. Rainwater harvesting is not a new concept, however, due to population growth, urban sprawl, and the establishment of municipal water supplies, the practice of rainwater harvesting as a primary water supply has become lesser known.

Rainwater harvesting benefits communities and the environment in many ways. Replacing municipal water use with rainwater reduces energy use and thus carbon emissions. Because collected rainwater can be used for outdoor applications that do not require filtration, energy is not used on filtering water that does not need it. Rainwater harvesting prevents water treatment plants from using excess electricity, pumping stations from using extra power, and sewer and water line repair machines from burning more fossil fuels than necessary. In addition, rainwater harvesting reduces the amount of pollutants that are typically present and picked up by stormwater flows off roofs, streets and storm drains that are then carried into groundwater, streams, and the ocean. Collecting rainwater before it reaches the ground prevents some chemicals, sediment, and debris from entering water sources.

Rainwater harvesting also allows for the slow down, spread, and infiltration of water, which can replenish groundwater supplies, improves the health of soil and plants, and reduces flood risks.

On an individual level, rainwater harvesting can reduce water bills and make people less reliant on imported water sources.

Legal Framework
The federal government does not regulate rainwater harvesting, but rather, leaves it up to the individual state governments to regulate. Rainwater harvesting laws vary greatly by state, but in most states, rainwater harvesting is either not regulated at all, meaning that there are no restrictions on how much rainwater can be collected and what it can be used for, or it is encouraged. In fact, many states and/or local agencies provide incentives, such as tax breaks or rebates, to those who collect rainwater because of the positive effects rainwater harvesting has on the environment. The Federal Energy Management Program has published a map to illustrate

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the water harvesting restrictions for each state as shown in Figure 1 below. The map ranks the states based on level of rainwater harvesting regulations, using the following categories:
 Very Limited: The state has limited exemptions available for legal implementation of rainwater harvesting
 Not illegal/No Regulations: No regulations are in place prohibiting rainwater harvesting.

The state generally has no information regarding rainwater harvesting  No Regulations/Encouraged: No regulations are in place prohibiting rainwater harvesting.

State-specific rainwater harvesting technical resources are available to encourage use, such as handbooks and guidelines on rainwater harvesting systems  State Regulations: Regulations are in place allowing rainwater harvesting; however, no specific technical resources or incentives are provided  State Regulations/Encouraged: Regulations are in place allowing rainwater harvesting, and state-specific technical resources are available to encourage the collection and use of rainwater
 State Regulations/Incentives: Regulations are in place allowing rainwater harvesting, state incentive programs are in place, and state-specific technical resources are available.

Figure 1 Rainwater Harvesting Regulations
Source: https://www.energy.gov/femp/rainwater-harvesting-regulations-map In California, rainwater harvesting is regulated through the Division of Water Rights. In 2012 Assembly Bill 1750, known as the “Rainwater Capture Act of 2012” authorized residential, commercial, and governmental landowners to install, maintain, and operate rain barrel systems and rainwater capture systems for specified purposes, provided that the systems comply with specified requirements. The California Water Code, Division 6, Part 2.4, section 10574, now states that the use of rainwater collected from rooftops does not require a water right permit. Prior to the Act, the State Water Resources Control Board (SWRCB) required that a permit was

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obtained to appropriate water from any source, including water falling in the form of precipitation.

Under the Act, however, the use of rainwater is not subject to the California Water Code's SWRCB permit requirement.

California Plumbing Code Chapter 16 covers rainwater catchment systems and states that no permit is required for exterior catchment systems used for spray irrigation with a maximum storage capacity of up to 360 gallons or for a non-spray irrigation system with a maximum storage capacity of 5,000 gallons where the tank is supported directly upon grade and the ratio of height to diameter or width does not exceed 2 to 1 and it does not require electrical power or a makeup water supply connection. Additionally, Chapter 16 provides a Minimum Alternate Water Source Testing Inspection, and Maintenance Frequency Table, which can be referenced to provide maintenance guidelines for rainwater catchment systems.

Imperial Beach Municipal Code Chapter 19.54 does not prohibit the use of rain barrels within the required setbacks of a lot.

Rainwater Harvest Systems
Rainwater harvest systems consist of three primary components: a rainfall capture system, a vessel for water storage, and a dedicated end use for the water. Other components of a rainwater system include the collection surface, gutters, downspouts, pre-filtration systems or first-flush devices, screens, and a distribution system as shown on Figure 2 below. Harvested rainwater is typically used for non-potable uses such as landscape irrigation or exterior washing but could also be used for interior uses such as toilet flushing or even potable supply if appropriate water treatment systems are designed and implemented.

Figure 2
Source: https://lincolnstormwater.org/residents/rain-barrels/ Typically, one inch of rain fall on a 1,000 square foot roof can produce approximately 600 gallons of water. There are various calculations available to help users determine the volume of water that can be collected from a surface.

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The following calculation provided by the Santa Clara Valley Water District can help determine the amount of rainwater that can be harvested from a given roof:

Supply (gallons) = inches of rainfall x 0.623 x catchment area (sq ft of roof) x .90 (runoff coefficient for a metal or asphalt roof)
The following calculation is provided by the County of San Diego to calculate minimum rain harvest volume:

Area (Sq ft) *0.0625 ft * 7.48 gallon/ft3 = gallons
The following calculation is provided by the American Rainwater Catchment Systems Association as a simple method for calculating the amount of water that can be harvested from any catchment surface:
1 square foot of catchment area x 1 inch of rainfall = 0.6 gallons of water Some sources also include tables to help users determine what size landscape features would be needed based on harvest volume (i.e. if some had a 94 sq ft space, they could build a rock garden that is 0.5 ft deep, or build a rain garden that is 1 ft deep, however if they had less space, you could capture the same amount of water if the garden was made deeper).

Although rain barrels are slowly becoming synonymous with rainwater harvesting, rainwater can be captured from many types of surfaces and does not require a storage vessel. Rain harvesting methods may include “rain to yard” and “rain to garden” methods, both of which do not require rain storage vessels. By simply redirecting a downspout onto a lawn or landscaped area, rainwater can be captured and used to nourish the soil. Similarly, installing landscape features underneath a downspout such as a rain garden, rock garden, bioswale, dry creek, or bioretention basin, the runoff of water can be slowed and spread through a yard.

Rainwater collection systems can also include storage vessels, which can vary greatly in size and range from 40-gallon rain barrels to cisterns with the capacity to hold thousands of gallons of water. Both rain barrels and cisterns serve as storage vessels for rainwater but typically small buildings, such as single-family residences, use one or multiple rain barrels or similar sized devices as a storage vessel and are the most common rainwater harvesting system. Rain barrels are typically made of plastic and low in cost, however, they can be made of wood, fiberglass or concreate. This system usually utilizes a gravity flow distribution system where a simple valve is installed that allows for water that has been collected to drain.

Cisterns are large rainwater storage vessels that can be used to capture runoff from more than one surface. Cisterns can range from a few hundred gallons in size upwards to 10,000 gallons or more. Cisterns can be located above or below ground. Cisterns are typically made of plastic, however, they can also be made of steel, concrete, or other suitable materials. Due to their size, cisterns can cost more to purchase and install and may require a permit from a local agency.

Rain Barrel Guidelines
While the attached rain barrel installation and maintenance guideline examples include current and relevant standards, there are some documents that are more thorough and some inconsistencies among documents, including formulas for calculating rainwater runoff and best practices. The following are key standards that may be included in guidelines for rain barrel installation in the City of Imperial Beach:
 Rain barrels shall be labeled to indicate “non potable water use only”.

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 The rainwater system may not be connected to indoor/outdoor municipal potable plumbing and shall not be pressurized or sprayed.
 The rain barrel system must be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions, and installation requirements of local agencies.  Resources to calculate roof area should be provided.
 Shade for the barrel should be considered to help limit algae growth and may include wrapping the barrel with mesh and planting a native crawling vine or painting the barrel an opaque color.
 Minimum requirements for Rain Barrels or Cisterns installation:
o Property must have gutters.
o The containers should be large enough to capture the minimum rain harvest volume for the relevant impervious area, or all of the overflows must infiltrate into adjacent landscaping.
o A screen should be placed between the diverter and the rain barrel. Overflow must be directed away from the foundation of your home.
o The container overflow cannot flow to neighboring properties or structures. o Overflow from the container must be directed to a landscaped area. o Ensure the barrel is level so that the weight of the water is equally distributed across the tank.
 Recommended Rainwater Harvest Maintenance Schedule
o Place gutter guards and/or screens on top of the roof downspouts and on top of the barrel to keep leaves and debris from entering the rain barrel. o Inspect, clean, and repair filters and screens every 3 months o Inspect and clear debris from the roof, rainwater gutters, downspouts, and roof washers every 6 months.
o Clean the barrel. Drain and clean the system annually. o Consider mosquito larvicide. Time‐release tablets or “mosquito dunks” may be used in a rain barrel. These contain bacteria that kill mosquito larvae, but do not harm people, animals, or plants.

Rain Barrel Educational Materials
The Water Conservation Garden – Offers workshops and events as well as consultations with profession landscape architects for a fee.

San Diego Sustainable Living Institute – Offers courses and workshops on water conservation and green living.

The Living Coast Discovery Center – Has a rain barrel on display.

Residential Rebates Programs within San Diego County
Solana Center for Environmental Innovation - Solana Center for Environmental Innovation is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit mobilizing the San Diego community through innovative outreach and consulting services for businesses and jurisdictions in order to address the region's most pressing environmental issues and enact impactful change. The Solana Center offers discounted rain barrels for County residents.

Otay Water District - Otay Water District teamed up with the San Diego County Water Authority and the Solana Center for Environmental Innovation to offer customers a $75 rebate on special discounted rain barrels.

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County of San Diego Waterscape Program - The County of San Diego Watershed Protection Program (WPP) is dedicated to protecting our environment by preventing pollutants from entering local waterways. Funding the rebate program is one of our many strategies for protecting water quality in our region. The Watershed Protection Program is partnering with Environmental Incentives to manage and distribute some of our rebates to program participants. Other rebates are offered and distributed by the San Diego County Water Authority and Metropolitan Water District of Southern California (through SoCal Water$mart).

SoCalWaterSmart - Residential customers of participating Metropolitan Water District member water agencies are eligible for SoCal Water$mart rebates. Residential customers are those living in houses or apartments, townhomes, condominiums or mobile home complexes with four or less dwellings that are not represented by a homeowner’s association or property management company. The Metropolitan Water District of Southern California is a consortium of 26 cities and water districts that provides drinking water to nearly 19 million people in parts of Los Angeles, Orange, San Diego, Riverside, San Bernardino and Ventura counties California American Water (CAAW) - made recent changes to its residential conservation rebate program and is no longer offering indoor or outdoor rebates for residential customers. Certain rebates, however, may still be available from your electric or gas utility. This change is due to lower approved funding levels for conservation rebate programs.

ENVIRONMENTAL DETERMINATION:

Not a project as defined by CEQA.

FISCAL IMPACT:

There will be no fiscal impact.

ATTACHMENTS:

ATT 1 – ARCSA Rainwater Harvesting Brochure
ATT 2 – EPA Green Infrastructure Toolbox Rainwater Harvesting Practices ATT 3 - Slow it. Spread it. Sink it! - Home Drainage Guide Resource Conservation District of Santa Cruz County
ATT 4 – County of San Diego Waterscape Rebate Program – How Do I Measure my Roof Area? ATT 5 – California UPPC PUC Chapter 16

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480-289-5766
Attachment 1

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INTRODUCTION
Rainwater harvesting is not a new concept. For thousands of years, people have been collecting rainwater — it was a common method of providing water for many of the
first settlers in America. This simple technology continues to be used today around the world to provide water for
drinking, irrigation and other non-potable uses. Collection systems range from 10,000-gallon cisterns to 40-gallon
rain barrels.

Much has changed in the last century — cities have sprung up, wells have been dug, lakes built and municipal water supplies established. Over the same time, springs have
reduced their flow or dried up, rivers are more polluted and the base flow has decreased.

Due to population growth and urban sprawl, our nation is now dominated by houses, streets and impervious cover.

This increases stormwater run- off and decreases water
infiltration into the ground where it falls. All of this has a direct impact on the water quantity and quality issues our nation is facing.

Today, there is renewed interest in rainwater harvesting — a time-honored source of water — primarily due to:
6 Concern about having access to high quality water, both now and in the future
6 The rising environmental and economic costs of
providing water through centralized water systems or
well drilling
6 Health concerns linked to the sources and
treatments of water
6 The cost efficiencies associated with rainwater
harvesting
6 Rainwater’s purity

USING RAINWATER
Captured rainwater can be used for both potable
(drinkable) and non-potable purposes, both inside and
outside a home or business. Outdoor uses include
watering landscaping and gardens, and to provide
water for pets, wildlife and livestock. Indoor uses
include toilet flushing and clothes washing. Rainwater
is often a forgotten resource for these uses, and can
significantly reduce the amount of treated drinking
water needed to complete these tasks. Additionally,
the process of designing and installing a rainwater
collection system is often less expensive than drilling a well.

Reducing stormwater runoff
Collecting rainwater can reduce stormwater runoff
and assist in water quality proctection. Rain barrels
or cisterns help detain stormwater flows and, when
connected to a drip hose or irrigation system, slowly
release the water collected back into the soil for
infiltration.

Landscape use
Rainwater does not contain ammonia, fluoride or
chlorine so it is preferable for use on your plants.

When using rainwater for landscaping, drip irrigation
is the most practical. supply can be provided by
gravity pressure alone or a pump attached to the
storage system.

Wildlife watering
“Water guzzlers” are rainwater collection systems
built in remote areas to provide water for wildlife.

A roof, storage tank and watering device are all that
are needed. Rainfall could also be collected from
existing barns, deer blinds or other
structures and used for wildlife water.

Water for livestock and pets
Livestock require great quantities of water on a
daily basis. A horse or cow can consume seven to 18
gallons of water a day and a large herd could demand
hundreds of gallons daily. Water demands for smaller
herds or individual animals or pets can be met with
collected rainwater.

Water for the home and business
The average North American uses approximately 101
gallons of water per day for both indoor and outdoor
uses. Rainwater can supply many homes worldwide
with an abundant supply of quality, soft, safe water
for drinking and other uses such as toilet flushing
and clothes washing. storage capacity needs to be
sufficient to provide several months supply of water
as well as an appropriately designed and maintained
filtration and disinfection system. Using rainwater
to meet these demands can significantly reduce
requirements for drinking water from your municipal
water supplier.

CONCLUSION
Captured rainwater has a tremendous amount
of potential both outside and inside your home or
business.

Our water is precious. We can capture rainfall when
and where it falls and then apply it during those times when there is no rain — or use it in a totally new way!

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Semi-Arid Green Infrastructure Toolbox
Rainwater Harvesting Practices
This residential rainbarrel incorporates a screen at the intake to keep out debris, mosquitoes and other creatures.

This simple rainbarrel schematic shows a gravity garden hose drain line.

What is a rainwater harvesting? Source: Neponset Stormwater Partnership Planter Box configuration of a bioretention system exhibiting 6 in. vertical curb with openings and adjacent sidewalk. Note that an underdrain system is required if existing soil is low permeability.

Source: Rodica Prato
Source: Eagle Creek Watershed Alliance
A residential cistern in Tucson, Arizona. This variation of a cistern system uses an underground tank and pumped supply line.

Source: Technicians for Sustainability (tfssolar.com)
Source: Montana State University Extension
Rainwater harvesting is the collection, storage, and use of rainwater for landscape irrigation or other uses. Rainwater harvest systems consist of three primary components: a rainfall capture system, a vessel for water storage, and a dedicated end use for the water. These components exhibit wide variation in sizes and materials. The practice can be implemented at a diverse range of scales from the single family home to a large industrial, commercial, or institutional facility. Harvested rainwater is often used for non-potable uses such as landscape irrigation or exterior washing but can be used for interior uses such as toilet flushing or even potable supply if appropriate water treatment systems are designed and implemented.

Rainbarrels
Rainwater harvesting systems which capture runoff from roof leaders on small buildings and use a barrel or similar sized device as a storage vessel are commonly called “rainbarrels” referring to the common appearance of the storage vessel.

Rainbarrels are the most common style of rainwater harvest systems to be implemented given their low cost (as low as $50) and simple design and construction. They can usually be retrofitted on existing homes by those with limited skills and equipment. Rain barrels are typically 50-60 gallons in size and constructed of plastic due to its low cost and resilience however some rainbarrels are manufactured of wood, fiberglass, or concrete. Most rainbarrels utilize a gravity flow distribution system in which the user opens a valve to drain collected water through a small hose.

Cisterns
Rainwater harvest systems which employ larger storage vessels and capture runoff from more than one or two roof leaders are typically called cisterns. Cisterns may range in size from a few hundred gallons up to hundreds of thousands of gallon for the largest systems. The cistern vessel can be constructed above or below ground and often include a pump to provide pressurized water flow for running an irrigation system or other end use.

Given their larger size, complexity, and cost more detailed analysis is generally conducted during the design of a cistern as compared to rainbarrels. Costs for cistern systems is usually several thousand dollars and varies widely based on size and materials. However it is possible to realize significant cost savings by repurposing existing materials.

Benefits
Rainwater harvesting provides a number of benefits:
Reduces demand on potable
water supplies
Saves water costs to homeowner
Supports healthy landscapes
Reinforces the value of water
resources to the end user
Siting and design considerations
Rainwater harvesting systems are notable in their variety of implementation. Storage vessels range from used wooden whiskey casks to corrugated galvanized steel tanks to subsurface concrete vaults. All of these systems however must include a system to capture runoff from a rooftop or paved surfaces. The majority of cisterns rely on rooftop runoff to supple water as it is generally free of sediments and contains much less contaminants than runoff from paved surfaces. A key feature of rainwater systems is a screen or filter system which prevents leaves and other debris from entering the storage vessel.

Some systems also are configured to prevent mosquitoes or other insects from accessing the cistern preventing them from becoming mosquito breeding grounds.

Cisterns are typically
sized to hold hundreds
to thousands of gallons
of rainwater
Water stored in cisterns
can be used for irrigation
Water collected
in rain barrels can
be used to irrigate
landscaping
Water harvesting can be combined with
other practices such as rain gardens
Commercial rain barrels are
typically 50-60 gallons but can
be larger or smaller
Attachment 2

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Semi-Arid Green Infrastructure Toolbox
Rainwater Harvesting Practices
How to plan, implement, and maintain rainwater harvesting practices Planning and Design: Rainwater harvesting practices are notable in their variety of implementation. Storage vessels range from used wooden whiskey casks to corrugated galvanized steel tanks to subsurface concrete vaults. All of these systems however must include a system to capture runoff from a rooftop or paved surfaces. The majority of cisterns rely on rooftop runoff to supple water as it is generally free of sediments and contains much less contaminants than runoff from paved surfaces. A key feature of rainwater systems is a screen or filter system which prevents leaves and other debris from entering the storage vessel. Some systems also are configured to prevent mosquitoes or other insects from accessing the cistern preventing them from becoming mosquito breeding grounds. There are a variety of online tools available which the user can use to determine appropriate size of the catchment area diverted to the system and the size of the storage vessel.

Some tools allow the user to estimate potential water demand and consider potable water costs to compute a payback period based on water savings. The American Rainwater Catchment Systems Association maintains a list of many of these tools and online calculators. A common cause of failure for rainwater harvest practices is the abandonment of the practice so that captured water is not used and the vessel stays full of water for a long period of time. This issue is particularly troublesome with rainbarrel systems which require active use by the homeowner. Some rainbarrels incorporate a secondary drawdown hose to ensure that some volume of the barrel is available for successive precipitation events.

Maintenance: Maintenance of rainwater
harvesting practices focuses on preventing
anything other than water from entering the
storage vessel and ensuring that captured water
used prior to the next rainfall event. Many systems
incorporate a first flush diverter or rain screen
at the inlet to keep out debris and small animals
which can lead to foul smelling water and a
negative association with the practice. In colder
climates the system may need to be taken offline
in the fall of the year as colder temperatures
could freeze stored water and cause damage
to components. Its important to remember to
reconnect the system in the spring.

More rainwater harvesting: Steel cistern Trickle drain to ensure passive function
Schematic of cistern at a residence draining to a rain garden Source L-R, Top to Bottom: Texas A&M, Neponset Stormwater Partnership, Colorado Public Radio, Portland Purple Water (Flickr), Tt Painted rain barrel Plastic cistern at a residence
Recommended Rainwater Harvesting Practice Maintenance Activities As Needed: Seasonally: Avoid:
z Check the entire system to ensure the barrel is functioning properly.
z Regularly use water collected in your rain barrel between rain events to make sure there is room to collect stormwater during the next storm.
z Place gutter guards and/or screens on top of the roof downspouts and on top of the barrel to keep leaves and
debris from entering the rain barrel.
z Remove leaves and other debris from the screen at the top of the barrel, the overflow pipe, and the roof gutter.
z Disconnect the rain barrel during the winter to avoid damage. Disconnect it from the downspouts, empty the
barrel, wash it out, and store it upside down in a protected location.
z Open the rain barrel spigot if you expect to be away for an extended period of time; make sure it will drain away from your foundation.
z Clean the barrel using a non-toxic substance to remove residue or algae.
z Clean out downspouts and roof gutters for the most effective mosquito control. However, if you find mosquitoes in your rain barrel, you may use a mosquito-control product such as Mosquito Dunk (follow manufacturers’ instructions).
³ Don’t leave water in your rain barrel for long periods of time ³ Don’t drink the water in your rain barrel or use the water inside your home or for your pets.
³ Don’t let children play in or around a rain barrel.
³ Don’t spray the water directly on vegetables or leaves, as the stormwater may contain bacteria.
³ Don’t let the barrel foundation become unlevel or unstable. A full 55-gallon barrel weighs 450 pounds and can tip over on an unstable surface.
³ Don’t forget to reconnect your rain barrel every year after the threat of frost has passed.

Source: Chesapeake Bay Foundation
Source: NC Division of Environment and Natural Resources

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 1 Slow it. Spread it. Sink it!
Practical Ways to Protect Your Property and the Environment from the Effects of Stormwater Runoff A Homeowner’s Guide to Turning Runoff into a Resource
Attachment 3

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 3 Slow it. Spread it. Sink it!
A Homeowner’s Guide to Greening Stormwater Runoff
Practical Ways to Protect Your Property
and the Environment from the Effects of Stormwater Runoff 2nd edition June 2015
Compiled and Written by: Resource Conservation District of Santa Cruz County Funded by: The State Water Resources Control Board 319(h) Guide Design, Layout & Editing: Blue Heron Design Group, Resource Conservation District of Santa Cruz County
Illustrations By: Ritch Waldron, Wildways Illustrated
Page Gruys
Printed By: Community Printers
For information on reprinting this guide contact:
820 Bay Avenue, Suite 136 · Capitola, CA 95010
(831) 464-2950
www.rcdsantacruz.org
or visit us on Facebook!
Funding for this project has been provided in full or in part through an agreement with the State Water Resources Control Board. The contents of this document do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of the State Water Resources Control Board, nor does mention of trade names or commercial products constitute endorsement or recommendation for use.

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4 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE STATEMENT OF PURPOSEThis Guide was developed for educational purposes by the Resource Conservation District of Santa Cruz County (RCD). The stormwater runoff improvement practices included in this guide are to be used as general guidelines and are not to be used as professional engineered specifications. Prior to implementation of ANY practices, seek technical assistance from a licensed professional engineer or landscape architect, and/or certified professionals in erosion and sediment control for specifications for these practices. Site-specific designs that address each individual site’s needs and constraints are essential.WHO WE AREThe Resource Conservation District of Santa Cruz County (RCD) is a special district organized under state law. The RCD is also a public resource agency with no enforcement or regulatory functions. The mission of the RCD is to help people protect, conserve, and restore natural resources through information, education and technical assistance programs.The RCD works closely with the Natural Resource Conservation Service (NRCS). NRCS, formerly the Soil Conservation Service (SCS), is a non-regulatory, federal agency in the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) created to lead a national effort to prevent erosion and protect the nation’s privately owned soils and water resources. NRCS provides free technical assistance through a variety of voluntary programs aimed at helping land users protect, enhance, and wisely use our nation’s soil, water, and other natural resources. Together, through this local partnership, local landowners receive many services including free on-site evaluations that address stormwater management, erosion control, and other resources concerns. Public workshops and trainings related to managing stormwater runoff are also conducted throughout the year. Cost-share, rebates and permitting assistance for qualified projects,is also available.ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSMany individuals contributed to the development of this guide. The Strategic Advisory Committee (SAC) and Technical Advisory Committee (TAC) attended many meetings, participated in multiple reviews, and provided invaluable ideas. They include the following: Additional information was compiled from the Low Impact Development Center, the Lake Tahoe Resource Conservation District, the San Francisco PUC, and the County of Santa Cruz. The Resource Conservation District of Santa Cruz County (RCD) produced this guide with Clean Water Act 319(h) funds administered by the California State Water Resources Control Board. Note: Federal, state, and local regulations in California pertain to many of the subjects presented in this guide. Regulations change quickly, as do the technical methods and standards for environmental protection. Be sure to follow applicable regulations covering private land maintenance and related activities for your area. Sherry BryanKelli CamaraRich CasalePilar ChavezChris CoburnBrock DolmanJosh Fodor Crystal GarciaBrett GrafAngie GruysWard HastingsDarla InglisMatt JohnstonRobert Ketley Howard KolbNick LasherGolden LoveBobby MarkowitzJim McKennaAlicia Moss Ezra Neale LeAnne RavinaleJohn RickerArmand RubyLizandro SalazarReid Smith BogertRoberta SmithAgnes Topp

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 5 TABLE OF CONTENTSINTRODUCTION ......................................................................................................................................................8CHAPTER 1: UNDERSTANDING AND EVALUATING STORMWATER RUNOFF AROUND YOUR HOME .............10 Roof Runoff ....................................................................................................................................................11Elevated Structures ........................................................................................................................................13Walkways and Patios......................................................................................................................................14Driveways and Parking Areas .........................................................................................................................15Bare Soils and Landscapes ............................................................................................................................16Do-It-Yourself Stormwater Runoff Evaluation ...............................................................................................17 CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES FOR STORMWATER RUNOFF AROUND THE HOME ..............20CHAPTER 3: DIFFICULT SITES AND SITE CONSTRAINTS ....................................................................................42CHAPTER 4: LOCAL PROJECTS ............................................................................................................................44RESOURCES GUIDE ...............................................................................................................................................55CHAPTER 2CHAPTER 1CHAPTER 3CHAPTER 4RESOURCEINTRODUC

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6 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE DID YOU KNOW?
Something as simple as water from a downspout contributes to a number of unwanted consequences. Roofs and other impervious surfaces alter natural hydrology by increasing the volume and flow patterns of stormwater runoff. This has a variety of impacts including increased rates of erosion and degraded stream and wildlife habitat. Other unintended outcomes associated with accelerated stormwater runoff are road deterioration, damage to structures, beach closures, flooding, and land slides. Fortunately there are simple low-cost actions that we all can take to minimize pollutants and decrease the volume of runoff leaving our properties. Many of these actions have added benefit of beautifying our landscapes too! Please read on.

DID YOU KNOW THAT THIS:

CAN CONTRIBUTE TO THIS:

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 7 Use PERVIOUS PAVERS when renovating your patio.

Collect your roof water in a RAIN BARREL.

SO WHY NOT TRY ONE OF THESE?Here are just a few of the ideas you’ll find in this guide to address stormwater runoff around your home.

Plant a RAIN GARDEN in your landscape.

Install a WATERBAR on your driveway.

Cost: LOW
Installation difficulty: EASY
See page 26
Cost: LOW to MODERATE
Installation difficulty: EASY to INTERMEDIATE
See page 29
Cost: MODERATE
Installation difficulty: INTERMEDIATE
See page 37
Cost: MODERATE - HIGH
Installation difficulty: INTERMEDIATE
See page 32

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8 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE even lead to hillslope instability and landslides. But problems associated with poor drainage often do not stop at your property line. Unmanaged water can lead to erosion on neighboring properties, damage to rural roads and costly repairs for landowners and road association members. An increase in impervious surfaces also minimizes infiltration, and by limiting groundwater recharge of aquifers we increase the pressure on Santa Cruz County’s water supply. Historically, the model for stormwater management has been conveyance – i.e. move water away from the site where it falls as quickly and efficiently as possible. Traditional management tools included street gutters and curbs, pipes, and canals to remove water from the developed areas.

FIGURE 1: PERCENTAGE RUNOFF GENERATED FROM IMPERVIOUS SURFACES, ADAPTED FROM FISRWG 1998 Introduction Of all the problems encountered by homeowners, one of the most common and often overlooked is improperly managed storm water runoff and residential drainage. A heavy rainfall on an average property and its impervious surfaces, such as roofs, patios, driveways and sidewalks, produces a tremendous amount of runoff - it only takes one inch of rain on 1,000 square feet of surface area to generate 600 gallons of water. All this water must go somewhere, and improperly designed or maintained drainage systems can affect what is likely your largest lifetime investment, your home and property! In addition, inadequately managed stormwater can have a negative impact on local creeks and rivers by delivering pollutants and causing significant erosion. And even if runoff is well managed, the increased volume of runoff from impervious surfaces still has an impact. Fortunately, a bit of awareness and planning can fix problems, prevent new ones from occurring, and can turn stormwater runoff into a resource! Improperly managed runoff from your house can cause your basement to flood, the soil under your house to settle or expand, foundations to crack, mold to grow in wet areas, and can

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO A HO MEOW NER’ S GU IDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE TURN ING 9 DID YOU KNOW?
Just as a city, county, state, or even our personal property has boundaries, so does a watershed. We define a watershed as the land that contributes water to a given area. Watersheds are normally named after the river, creek, or stream that they drain to. For instance, residents of Felton are in the San Lorenzo River Watershed. If you live in Soquel Village or Capitola, you are in the Soquel Creek Watershed. All of the rainfall and runoff from our homes drains into the watershed where it is located, eventually replenishing critical groundwater resources or flowing to the Monterey Bay.

Even individual home sites were encouraged to send all of their water to the street via driveways, downspouts, and underground outlets. To convey increased stormwater volume, creeks and rivers have been re-shaped and lined with concrete. Detention ponds, some with water quality filtration devices, have also been constructed to regulate discharge and reduce peak flow impacts on receiving waters. For the most part, these practices reduce flood impacts, but do not completely address water quality, and aquatic and riparian habitat degradation issues.However, a new concept in stormwater management is emerging, called Low-Impact Development (LID), the principles of which can be implemented in new developments, neighborhoods, and incorporated into existing systems around your home. LID seeks to mimic thenatural watershed by reducing impervious surfaces, promoting infiltration, filtering runoff, and reducing the peak discharge during flood events. In contrast with the traditional approaches, the guiding principle of the LID approaches is not conveyance, but source control and infiltration. This is achieved through a variety of site design and engineered techniques. Design options might include locating open spaces in low-lying areas to serve as a detention or retention basins and avoiding development on permeable soils to promote infiltration and groundwater recharge. Engineered techniques could include the use of grassy swales, bioretention cells, and porous pavement. Simple things such as routing roof runoff away from the street and into a planted filtration area (rain garden) or capturing and storing rainwater for later use are also great, low-cost options for existing properties. The use of LID concepts can improve environmental quality and have an economic benefit through reduced flooding, maintenance, and mitigation of environmental impacts – not to mention, they will help homeowners solve their most challenging problems related to runoffIn addition to the information provided in this guide the Resource Conservation District of Santa Cruz County (RCD), in partnership with the USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service (NRCS) and other local organizations, offers free technical publications, educational workshops, on-site stormwater runoff evaluations, and cost-share assistance for implementing stormwater Best Management Practices (BMPs). For more information, please visit the RCD online at www.rcdsantacruz.org. …AND CONTINUES

DIRECTLY TO THE
SAN LORENZO RIVER.

RUNOFF FROM THE SURROUNDING HOMES AND STREETS FLOWS THROUGH THIS STORM DRAIN...

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE
CHAPTER 1: UNDERSTANDING AND EVALUATING STORMWATER
10 CHAPTER 1

UNDERSTANDING AND EVALUATING STORMWATER RUNOFF AROUND YOUR HOME Specific actions or practices to minimize the effects of stormwater runoff are called Best Management Practices (BMPs). An example of a BMP is slowing runoff by temporarily storing it in a rain barrel or other detainment system where it can be used to water plants or metered out over the landscape once the rains have passed. Another example is allowing runoff to sink into the ground by directing it to landscape vegetation where sediment can be filtered out and contaminants reduced through bioremediation (use of plants and microorganisms to biologically break down and thereby remove pollutants). Low Impact Development (LID) is another common term normally referred to in larger scale developments that incorporate ecologically friendly stormwater management practices. Because the county is already developed, it is essential that we each do our part to implement stormwater BMPs. This guide will focus on BMPs that you can implement around your home. The BMPs are not complicated. They are geared toward residential homes or small developments and the underlying concepts behind them follow a simple mantra: Slow it. Spread it. Sink it! Slow the runoff downSpread it out in planters, gardens, or over other pervious surfaces - do not confine runoff to pipesSink it back into the ground!This chapter divides your property into five major areas or “zones” that can contribute to runoff: 1) roofs, 2) elevated structure, 3) walkways and patios, 4) driveways and parking areas, and 5) bare soils and landscapes. It examines each zone for common problems related to runoff and suggests potential solutions. The end of the chapter provides instructions for a simple do-it-yourself evaluation of your property to assist you in choosing BMPs that suit your specific needs.

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE
CHAPTER 1: UNDERSTANDING AND EVALUATING STORMWATER
11 POTENTIAL PROBLEMS BMP SOLUTIONS
A
B
A Adding gutters and
downspouts works to direct water to a safe location away from bare soil and buildings (see page 22).

B Vegetated or rock dripline protection SLOWS runoff
thus reducing erosion and promoting Infiltration. It is also designed so that the ground slopes away from the home’s foundation (see page 24).

ROOFSYour roof likely generates the most runoff from your home. While the majority of roofs are outfitted with gutters and downspouts, some are not, so protection measures for either possibility are discussed. Regardless of which system you use, all eaves and downspouts should be routed away from sensitive areas such as septic system leachfields, hillsides, and building foundations.

NON-GUTTERED ROOFSIf it is not possible to install gutters because of cost or other issues, you will need to protect the ground below the eaves which is referred to as the drip-line. Runoff from eaves can cause significant erosion and the resulting moisture can damage foundations and cause unhealthy mold to develop.

A Non-guttered roofs can
cause problems along the drip-line of your home.

B Water from a non-guttered
roof can cause erosion, damage structures and foundations, and contribute to downstream pollution. Ponding near foundations can also cause unhealthy mold to develop.

DID YOU KNOW?It takes only one inch of rain falling on a typical 1500-square-foot roof to generate approximately 1,000 gallons of runoff. Annual rainfall in Santa Cruz County ranges from 20 to 60 inches depending on where you live (residents at higher elevations generally receive higher amounts of rainfall). This means that in one winter, your roof alone could shed between 20,000 and 60,000 gallons of water as runoff! Repairing mold and water damage

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE
CHAPTER 1: UNDERSTANDING AND EVALUATING STORMWATER
12 GUTTERED ROOFSGutters and downspouts are an excellent choice for handling roof runoff; however, they must be properly sized, managed, and maintained to prevent damage to property and the environment. Undersized gutters clog and overflow more frequently which can damage foundations. Directing downspout runoff toward impervious surfaces like driveways is common but can contribute to downstream flooding,surface water pollution, road damage, stream degradation and other issues. ALWAYS avoid sending runoff towards hillsides, septic system leachfields, and buildings where it can cause significant damage.

POTENTIAL PROBLEMS
B See Driveways and Parking Areas (page 15).

A
B

BMP SOLUTIONS
A The downspout is directed toward an impervious (concrete) driveway that drains to the street. The resultant runoff may damage roads, exacerbate downstream flooding, or carry pollutants to nearby waterways.

B This driveway is constructed
of impervious materials (concrete), and all of the runoff is directed toward the street. The resultant runoff may damage roads, exacerbate downstream flooding, or carry pollutants to nearby waterways.

Runoff from residential homes can carry pollutants to local steams that can be harmful to wildlife.

A Rain barrels, downspout diverters, and rain gardens are all potential solutions for treating downspout runoff by SLOWING water down and SPREADING it out ( page 26 and 28).

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE
CHAPTER 1: UNDERSTANDING AND EVALUATING STORMWATER
13 A
B
C
ELEVATED STRUCTURESThe area underneath decks, outdoor stairs, and other elevated structures where water impacts the ground is called the drip-line. Significant soil loss, damage to supporting structures, or worse can occur if this area is not adequately protected. Where signs of erosion are present such as soil loss or uneven ground from water flow, it is important to take protection measures. Locations with over a 50% slope are particularly vulnerable and may require treatments designed and installed by a qualified licensed professional.

POTENTIAL PROBLEMS BMP SOLUTIONS
A Adding mulch or drain rock on
slopes less than 33% or vegetation to the perimeter SLOWS and SPREADS water limiting erosion (pages 24-25).

B Adding drain rock SLOWS
runoff and safeguards the drip-line area under elevated surfaces. Mulch around the perimeter adds extra protection to the surrounding bare soil (pages 24-25).

C Terracing or retaining walls
may be added to sloped areas to keep rock or other mulch in place and protect hillsides (pages 38-39).

A Low decks may prohibit the addition of protective ground cover, leaving bare soil to erode.

B The runoff from high decks impacts
the soil with greater force than low decks. It can cause structural damage to supports and contribute to sediment and other pollutants entering nearby storm drains and streams.

C Runoff on steep slopes with bare soils can cause significant erosion and even landslides. Ground covers such as rock and mulch are hard to keep in place and can easily wash away.

Visible erosion under a deck is common.

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE
CHAPTER 1: UNDERSTANDING AND EVALUATING STORMWATER
14 WALKWAYS AND PATIOSWalkways and patio areas often become conduits for runoff. For existing paved paths or patios look for areas of standing water or visible signs of erosion where the path or patio surface meets the soil. Does your walkway drain to the street or toward your house? When constructing a new walkway or patio always consider where it will drain. Angle it toward a vegetated area or try one of the new porous materials that will reduce runoff and promote infiltration.

POTENTIAL PROBLEMS BMP SOLUTIONS
A
B
C
DID YOU KNOW? It’s important to properly dispose of pet waste. Roundworms, E. coli, and Giardia are just a few of the many harmful microorganisms that can be transmitted from pet waste to humans. Some can last in your yard for as long as four years. Children who play outside and adults who garden are at greatest risk of infection. Pet waste is also one of the main sources of bacterial contamination of creeks in Santa Cruz County. The American Pet Products Manufacturers Association claims four in 10 U.S. households have at least one dog. That equates to over 140,000 dogs within the county and incorporated cities! Holy pooch! That’s a lot of poop. Let’s work to keep our families healthy and waterways clean. The solution is safe and easy: 1. Scoop the poop;2. Put it in a bag (recycled or biodegradable bags are the best option);3. Place it in the trash; and4. Wash your hands.

A Foot traffic, even in low use areas, can inhibit plant growth and leave bare soil to erode.

B Walkways or other hard
surfaces that drain to the street increase runoff causing problems downstream.

C Hard durable surfaces such
as patios are often constructed of concrete or other impervious materials that don’t allow runoff to infiltrate.

Residential runoff that drains to the street contributes to localized flooding.

A Mulch, gravel, or wood
chips work well in low-traffic areas and allow for more runoff to SINK into the ground (page 34).

B Turf block works well for
allowing water to SINK into the soil in medium-traffic areas or driveways with separate parking areas (page 33).

C Use paver stones for hightraffic areas and patios. For areas with excess runoff, use plant borders to allow more water to SINK into the ground (pages 32 and 35).

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE
CHAPTER 1: UNDERSTANDING AND EVALUATING STORMWATER
15 DRIVEWAYS AND PARKING AREASTraditionally, driveways have been constructed to divert runoff directly to the street. That runoff can carry with it a variety of pollutants, such as oil and grease, soaps from car washing, leaked antifreeze and more. Your driveway can also act as a conduit for large volumes of roof runoff. Concentrating large volumes of water that outlet to the street increases the chances of road damage, flooding, and erosion. Check to see where your driveway water goes and locate the nearest storm drain. There are now many alternatives available to replace impervious concrete and a variety of BMPs for addressing runoff on your driveway or parking areas. For a more thorough discussion on road and driveway treatments, please obtain a copy of the Private Roads Maintenance Guide for Santa Cruz County published by the Resource Conservation District of Santa Cruz County. The guide is available online at www.rcdsantacruz.org or through the RCD office.

POTENTIAL PROBLEMS BMP SOLUTIONS
A The downspout
is directed toward an impervious (concrete) driveway that drains to the street. The resultant runoff may damage roads, exacerbate downstream flooding, or carry pollutants to nearby waterways.

B This driveway slopes toward the street and creates runoff potentially contributing to flooding, erosion, and pollutants in nearby storm drains and streams.

C This driveway is also constructed of impervious materials (concrete), and all of the runoff is directed toward the street. The resultant runoff may damage roads, exacerbate downstream flooding, or carry pollutants to nearby waterways.

D Driveways that do direct water runoff
away from the street can still contribute to erosion if the area collecting the runoff is not properly protected or maintained.

A See Guttered Roofs on page 12.

B An asphalt berm, also known
as a waterbar, is like a small speed bump set at an angle. It can be added to an existing driveway to SLOW and SPREAD runoff to vegetated or rocked infiltration areas. (page 37).

C Pervious concrete (pictured)
or other materials such as paver stones or turf block, allow water to SINK into the soil decreasing runoff (page 33).

D A rocked or vegetated swale
lining the edge of a road or driveway reduces erosion potential by SLOWING runoff and then SINKING it back into the soil or directing it to a safer outlet (page 31).

DID YOU KNOW?We have all heard that cars contribute to air pollution. But, did you know they can also contribute to water pollution? Soap from car washing, oil and grease from leaking engines, zinc from tires, and copper from brakes can all end up in the water where we play, fish, live, and even drink! Keeping cars properly maintained, using commercial car washes, washing vehicles on lawns or gravel parking areas, recycling oil, antifreeze, and used batteries, keeping tires properly inflated, and simply driving less will all contribute to cleaner water for everyone! B
A
C D
Driveways can act as conduits for excess amounts of runoff that can damage roads.

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE
CHAPTER 1: UNDERSTANDING AND EVALUATING STORMWATER
16 POTENTIAL PROBLEMS BMP SOLUTIONS
A Mulch protects soil from direct
rainfall impact and SLOWS runoff across bare soils (page 34).

B Retaining walls help hold sloped
areas in place and SLOW runoff. They also add beauty to a landscape and can double as benches and planter boxes (page 38).

B
A
C
A Bare soils are highly susceptible to erosion. B In steeply sloped or hilly areas soil erosion is not only harmful to the environment, but it can pose a serious threat to life and limb when land movement occurs.

C Moderately sloped areas are
also prone to erosion and can cause damage to surrounding structures if they become unstable.

Bare soils are susceptible to erosion and increase runoff, that delivers sediments and other pollutants to streets and storm drains and eventually to local waterways.

C Using carefully chosen vegetation can help SLOW and SPREAD runoff in order to prevent soil erosion on hillsides. Ceanothus (pictured) is one example of a shrub that does well in areas with full sun and requires little to no summer water once established (page 35).

BARE SOILS AND LANDSCAPESBare soils and sloped areas are the part of any landscape that are most vulnerable to the impacts of runoff. Without a protective cover of vegetation, duff (decaying leaves and needles), or mulch (wood chips, etc.), these areas erode which can reduce soil fertility, compromise support structures for decks and buildings, and in extreme cases, lead to catastrophic events such as landslides. Erosion on bare soils can be identified by uneven soil surfaces, depressions in the soils that create small gullies, and any sign that indicates soil loss. If water is flowing across bare soil anywhere on your property, at least some soil is being carried away (eroding). Since vegetation plays an important role in preventing soil loss, it is important to use plants adapted to your site. Some plants such as certain kinds of ivy or ice plant can actually hinder the stability of sloped areas due to poor root structure or added weight.

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE
CHAPTER 1: UNDERSTANDING AND EVALUATING STORMWATER
17 ASSESSING YOUR PROPERTY’S POTENTIAL:DO-IT-YOURSELF STORMWATER RUNOFF EVALUATIONCompleting this simple assessment will help you discover areas on your property to install practices that conserve water and manage rain water. It consists of a walk around your property to record observations of stormwater runoff, soil types, and current landscape management practices, take measurements, estimate the volume of stormwater runoff, and identify what types of landscape improvements could be made to beautify your yard and protect our valuable water resources.TOOLS.

UÊ rainfall data UÊ shovel and water (perc test) UÊ clip board and pencil UÊ waterproof camera UÊ calculator UÊ property sketch or map UÊ umbrella and rain gear UÊ measuring tape/ruler CREATE A SKETCH. Your sketch will be used to record observations about how stormwater moves across your property and to estimate the total volume of stormwater runoff that originates from your property. The simple sketch should be a birds-eye view and include property lines, footprint of your house, buildings, driveways, areas of bare soil and any major vegetation (trees, lawns, etc.). WALK YOUR PROPERTY. With your property sketch completed, you are ready to head outside. We recommend two different walks. First, on a dry day to take measurements of hardened areas (roofs, driveways and parking areas) and record current landscape management practices (fertilization, pesticide controls, yard waste, and irrigation). Second, take a walk on a rainy day to observe rain water flows. For the most accurate results, do not choose the first storm of the season or go out during the first few minutes of rain. Wait until there have been at least one or two good rain events (more than a ½ inch), then go out during a subsequent storm once you see water flowing on your property. During the walk, record rain water runoff observations by drawing arrows that follow the direction water is moving on your property (see sample drawing). Also note how close you are to the nearest stream, storm drain, or ditch that carries water away from your property. Bring your camera and take lots of pictures. Pay special attention in areas where water is flowing quickly or ponding. You can use the photos when evaluating practices to install.ESTIMATE TOTAL POTENTIAL VOLUME OF RUNOFF. To calculate the total volume of potential rain water runoff generated on your property, you will need to know the square footage of hardened areas where rain water doesn’t soak back into the ground (e.g. roofs and driveways) and the annual rainfall in your location (see page 19 for annual rainfall map of Santa Cruz County). On average, a 1,000 square foot hard surface will generate approximately 620 gallons of runoff per inch of rain.

Another useful number is the inches of rain that could fall in a 24 hour storm event. Your local agency stormwater departments should have maps (85th and 95th percentile rainfall depths) for your area. These numbers are helpful for designing a landscape feature can infiltrate all of the runoff in most storms. New permitted developments are required to design for this.

ASSESS YOUR SOILS! This is one of the most critical pieces of information you need. You can start with looking at the soil maps available through the local RCD and NRCS offices and online at www.rcdsantacruz.org—Resources for Professionals. However, it is highly recommended that you conduct a simple percolation test or consult a professional for an evaluation of the soils at your location. Soils with poor infiltration rates may not be good candidates for certain infiltration practices without additional engineered features.EVALUATE YOUR RESULTS. Using your results, determine what practices you might employ to beautify your landscape, protect your property, reduce flooding, and help improve local water quality. Note them on your property sketch. Contact your local RCD office for additional assistance in planning your landscape design. Funding assistance may also be available through the RCD or your local water district.

X X 0.62 =
square footage of impervious area
annual rainfall
gallons of runoff

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE
CHAPTER 1: UNDERSTANDING AND EVALUATING STORMWATER
18 DID YOU INCLUDE?
UÊNote where you might find “dirty” vs.
“clean” water? If you have “dirty” water flowing to a waterbody or storm drain, what might you do to keep it clean? UÊWhat direction is water flowing? Does it
drain to vegetated areas or to impervious surfaces such as driveways and streets? UÊWhere is the closest storm drain or
creek?
UÊDo you have areas of standing water?
Poor soil infiltration may be indicated by standing water that does not drain within 24 hours.

UÊDo you have runoff from your irrigation
water?
UÊDo you have runoff from a neighboring
property entering your property or vice versa?
UÊDo you have runoff draining to a
steep slope?
clean water
dirty water
dirty water?
fertilizers applied
fertilizers applied
storm drain
clean water
Sample site drawing.
bare eroding
soil
add rain garden
or rain barrel?? Perc
test rate?
downspouts
downspouts
OTHER CONSIDERATIONSKEEP CLEAN WATER CLEAN. Rain water runoff is considered “clean” when it’s generated from a surface that has no potential contaminants such as runoff from your roof. “Dirty” water would be runoff that has traveled across a surface that contains material that could potentially degrade water quality, such as motor oil, sediment, fertilizers, pesticides or animal waste. It is important to differentiate between these two types of runoff because there are different practices for dealing clean water versus dirty water. Areas that generate “dirty” water should be routed to a vegetated or other filtration area. This allows the water to naturally “clean” itself before it makes its way to a storm drain or creek. Clean water requires less management and does not need “treatment” before being directed to a storm drain.MAINTENANCE. Always understand the maintenance requirements of whatever practices you install. Rain barrels require periodic sediment removal, drains require cleaning, and pervious pavements may require “vacuuming.”SAFETY. Never route stormwater to an unstable or steep hillside or other area that could pose a safety hazard (see Chapter 3). For more information on safety concerns or for a free assessment of your property, contact the Resource Conservation District, the Natural Resources Conservation Service or other qualified professional. Native plants, a “hollywood” driveway, rain water catchment, dry creek beds and pervious pavers are all great landscape options to slow it, spread it and sink it!

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE
CHAPTER 1: UNDERSTANDING AND EVALUATING STORMWATER
19 ANNUAL RAINFALL. Using the
map on he left of you live in Santa Cruz County, find the approximate location of your property. Find the closest red line and the matching annual rainfall in inches. You can use this number to estimate the volume of water collected on your roof or other hard surfaces where there is no opportunity for infiltration. Adding all of those surfaces together will provide you with the total annual volume of runoff for your property. Installing landscape features that allow even some of this water to soak back into the ground or collect it for irrigation or other uses will benefit our local water resources.

PERC TEST. A percolation test,
sometimes referred to as a “perc test,” determines how quickly water can move through the soil when saturated. This helps determine if your property has good soils for infiltration BMPs like rain gardnes. 30 32 36
36 38
38 34
40 42
42 44 40
22 46
24 20
48 26
50 52
52 54
5658 60
38 24
46 46
48 46
26 50 Santa Cruz County
Average Annual Rainfall
(inches/year)
Pajaro River Monterey Bay
Boulder Creek
Capitola
Ben Lomond
Scotts Valley
Watsonville
Santa Cruz
Davenport Soquel
Felton
Aptos
'
' '
'
' '
1 1 '1
129
152
'9
'17
236 35
A good time to do the test is after a rain.1. Dig 1x1x1 foot hole.2. Insert a 12 inch or greater ruler.3. Fill hole with water and leave overnight. 4. Return the next day and fill the hole with water. Record the starting water level on the ruler in inches. After 10 minutes, record the ending water level in inches. Calculate the difference and multiple by six. Repeat this three times. This will give you an idea of how quickly your soil drains. Heavy clay soils may need as much as two to three hour to get a good recording. When you get two or more similar readings, that’s your percolation measurement. Fast = 1” or more per hour, medium=1/4” - 1/2” per hour, slow less than 1/4” per hour. START (12”) 10 MINUTES (10”) 12”

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
20 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE CALL BEFORE YOU DIG!Underground Service Alert (USA) is a FREE service available to anyone planning a project that entails digging. It is simple and easy to use. Before calling USA, outline your digging location with temporary white chalk paint or another medium clear enough to enable USA underground facility members to determine the area of digging. Two working days BEFORE you start your project, call 811 or 1-800-227-2600. USA will contact the appropriate agencies to come and mark any utilities that interfere with your project location. For more detailed information, visit USA North online at www.usanorth.org.

CHAPTER 2

BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES FOR STORMWATER RUNOFF AROUND YOUR HOME Disclaimer: The Best Management Practices (BMPs) described in this guide are provided exclusively for general educational and information purposes. The guide is intended to help landowners consider their current runoff practices and to identify concerns and potential solutions. Any BMP should be installed with the consultation of an experienced professional who can address specific site conditions. This chapter outlines a number of well-established practices along with recently introduced options for managing stormwater runoff.Managing stormwater on your property is not a new idea. Most residential homes were constructed using the runoff methods of the era in which they were built. For the past 50 years, that approach has been to direct runoff away from the property as quickly as possible using pipes and pavement. While largely effective to reduce flooding, we now recognize that this approach has many unintended consequences. We are now experiencing these in a variety of ways including increased potential for flooding, damage to public and private property, stress on our water supplies, and degradation of our local waterways and habitats. The Best Management Practices or BMPs (practices thought to be the most practical and cost-effective) recommended in this guide move away from the old “pipe it and pave it” model and toward the slow it, spread it, sink it approach: Slow the water down, spread the water out, and sink the water into the land. That notion is at the heart of these practices and is a simple mantra you can use to address the runoff on your own property. The following chapter includes information on a variety of BMPs. Find those that best fits your needs, your pocketbook, and your unique site conditions. Following this chapter is a must-read section on difficult locations and site constraints. While this guide presents great ideas, it is critical to recognize when and where they are NOT appropriate.Before embarking on any new project please remember:1. In many cases a simple change in management of your current system may be all that is needed to minimize negative impacts of stormwater runoff. Each BMP includes details on maintenance. It is important to recognize that each BMP requires ongoing maintenance to remain effective, and to factor this maintenance into your plans. If you already use one of the listed BMPs, please review the maintenance section for tips on getting the most out of your existing features.2. Vegetation plays several important roles in the function of BMPs, which may include:UÊ Slowing down water and physically removing sedimentsUÊ Helping to stabilize slopes through their root structure and reduction of rain impact on the soilUÊ Biological removal of nutrients and other pollutants (bioremediation)UÊ Improving soil infiltration3. Structural practices are usually more expensive to install and maintain and place a greater strain on resources and the environment. Structural practices should only be used when management changes or vegetation is not an option.4. ALWAYS check with applicable regulatory agencies to determine if a permit is necessary for any project. Examples of projects for which a permit may be required include building a retaining wall, installing a large cistern, sending runoff to a creek or stream, and directing water to a neighboring property.5. CALL BEFORE YOU DIG! Call 811 or 1-800-227-2600 for assistance from Underground Service Alert (USA).

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE T URNING R UNOFF IN T 21 The Best Management Practices (BMPs) described in this chapter include general information to help guide you in choosing option that fit you needs. Each description will also indicate the expected benefits, a qualitative cost range of low to high, and a level of difficulty for installation by the homeowner. It is additionally noted where using a qualified licensed professional is highly recommended.Conserve water: Water can be conserved by capturing rainwater and saving it for later use, using plants with low water needs OR directing runoff water to areas where it can be stored in the soil for later use by plants.Create wildlife habitat: Choose appropriate plants that provide habitat for local wildlife and act as natural pest control.Improve landscape aesthetics: Many of the BMPs not only serve a useful function, can be designed to beautify your landscape.Reduce peak flows or facilitate runoff timing: Changing the timing of residential runoff will reduce peak flows and mitigate flooding.Reduce Erosion: Practices that reduce erosion limit the loss of top soil and reduce the volume sediments entering local streams. Protect infrastructure: These practices help reduce runoff that could damage structures, foundations, or public infrastructure such as roads.

Conserve water Create wildlife habitat Improve landscape aesthetics Reduce peak flows or runoff timing Reduce erosion Protect infrastructure

BENEFITS
COST
Low costMedium costHigh costINSTALLATION DIFFICULTYEasyModerateComplex $
$$
$$$
E
M
C

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
22 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE CHAPTER 2: BESTMANAGEMENTPRACTICES CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES Gutters and DownspoutsUSES: ROOF RUNOFF
Santa Cruz County and the incorporated cities may have specific requirements for installing gutters and downspouts. Since requirements often change, we have provided general guidelines, but you should contact your respective planning/building department for more detailed information.

NEW INSTALLATIONS OR RETROFITSProperly sized gutters and downspouts are crucial for performance. While installation is fairly simple, calculating the correct size system for your roof can prove more difficult. You will need to know your roof area and pitch or slope and your location’s annual rainfall. We recommended contacting the RCD or a local qualified professional to assist with calculating correct gutter and downspout sizes. Also consider where your downspouts drain. Wherever possible and safe, divert downspouts AWAY from impervious surfaces such as concrete driveways, walkways, or compacted soils.Instead direct them to well vegetated areas of your property to allow runoff to SINK into the soil. This decreases water volume on streets and in storm drains and reduces the potential for downstream flooding. The following are general guidelines for selecting and installing gutters and downspouts or improving capacity.GUTTERSSelect gutters at least 5 inches wide. Use materials made from galvanized steel (29 gauge minimum) or aluminum (.025 inch minimum). To enhance flow, slope gutters according to the manufacturer’s recommendations (commonly 1/16 inch to 1/8 inch per 1 foot of sectional gutter; or 1/16 to 1/8 inch per 10 feet of seamless gutters). Tilt the gutter forward keeping the front 1/2 inch lower than the back. For straight runs exceeding 40 feet, use expansion joints at connections. Select elbows with 45, 60, 75 or 90 degree angles, as needed.

Gutters not only come in different sizes, they also come in different shapes. It’s important to understand that the shape of your gutter determines the amount of water it can handle during a storm. Ogee shaped gutters, for example, can hold more water than rounded gutters. However the ogee gutter’s sharp edges and corners can collect sediment and debris. $-$$$ E-M

GUTTER PROFILES
Half Round Ogee

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 23 CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENTPRACTICES CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES DOWNSPOUTSSpace downspouts between 20 to 50 feet apart. Adding additional downspouts increases capacity, where necessary, and help SLOW water down and SPREAD it out. Do not exceed 45-degree angle bends. Where needed use 4-inch-diameter extensions (flexible or rigid) to convey water to infiltration areas such as rain gardens and swales or to other safe outlets away from structures and steep slopes. All downspouts and pipes that outlet onto surfaces without substantial vegetation cover should use one of the outlet protection BMPs described on page 28. Do not direct downspout outlets to driveways or other impervious surfaces unless there are no safe alternatives. Instead, route them to vegetated areas.MAINTENANCE: Setting up a maintenance schedule is one of the easiest and most cost-effective solutions to many roof runoff issues. Clean your gutters at the beginning of each rainy season and as needed throughout the winter, especially after severe storms. In areas with dense trees or vegetation, trim trees and vines away from gutters to maintain a minimum 24-inch clearance zone. Add gutter guards to reduce debris buildup. You can also add a drip-line treatment (page 24-25) below gutters that clog often. Check your system for leaks, damaged parts, rust, and evidence of past erosion. Make sure to check hidden outlets under decks or staircases that might be forgotten.

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DID YOU KNOW? A RAIN CHAIN can be used instead of a downspout. Rain chains (‘kusari dio’ in Japanese) have been used for hundreds of years in Japan. Not only are they visually appealing, they also provide some runoff reduction through evaporation and spillage. When installing rain chains, make sure to take the same precautions for outlet protections as you would with standard downspouts. For more information visit a local retailer or www.rainchains.com.

Adding an additional downspout helps reduce the volume and velocity of runoff at any given point reducing the potential for erosion.

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
24 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE Drip-Line Protection USES: BELOW ROOF EAVES, UNDER DECKS OR ELEVATED STRUCTURES A drip-line is the area below any elevated surface that receives runoff. For roofs it is the ground below eaves that do not have gutters installed. For decks and other elevated surfaces it is the area underneath where water drips through (e.g., the area between and below the deck boards). Drip-line BMPs create a barrier to protect exposed soil and reduce erosion. The protective cover also SLOWS runoff and allows it to SINK back into the soil. This is critical in areas where runoff-induced erosion could reduce the effectiveness of support structures and footings. Drip-line protection is also a great addition where gutters frequently overflow due to large amounts of debris VEGETATION PROTECTION FOR DRIP-LINES Roof drip-lines: Homeowners can establish and maintain mature vegetation below their roof drip-lines. If there is existing vegetation (such as turf or a bordered planter bed), simply maintain these areas. Examples of adequate drip-line vegetation include the following:UÊi>Ì ÞÊ}À>ÃÃÊÀÊÌÕÀvÊÌ
>ÌÊ
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>ÌÊ>ÀiÊV«iÌiÞÊLÀ`iÀi`ÊLÞÊÜ`]ÊÀV]ÊÀÊÌÕÀvÊÜÌ
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ÊLiÌÜiiÊÛi}iÌ>ÌÊVÛiÀ}Êany bare soilContact the RCD, the local native plant society (NPS), native plant nursery, or a qualified professional for assistance with plants well-adapted to your specific location. See the Resource section for contact information.Deck/stair drip-lines: Where adequate sunlight is available, planting hardy ground cover, grasses, or other low growing vegetation is a good low-cost option for protecting soil from erosion beneath decks and stairs. Use drought tolerant plants that do not require supplemental watering once established to prevent additional runoff or water near a structure. If you have structures on your property that are low to the ground and are inaccessible underneath, try planting around the perimeter.MAINTENANCE: Periodic mowing, pruning, and replacement of plants is needed. Inspect the foundation to ensure water is not saturating or eroding structure or foundation. Keep fertilization to a minimum as it can contribute to excess nutrients in runoff. If you do fertilize, always carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions and never apply in excess or prior to forecasted rain.

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onto bare soil.
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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 25 HARDSCAPE PROTECTION FOR DRIP-LINES Roof drip-lines: Wood chips, mulch, or gravel can be used to protect soil from erosion and promote infiltration into soils with high permeability (sandy soils). Install gravel or mulch under the drip-line at a minimum depth of 3 inches. This treatment must extend 6 inches inside the eaves and a minimum of 12 inches beyond the eaves of a single-story roof, 18 inches beyond the eaves of a two-story roof, and 24 inches beyond the eaves of a three-story roof. This treatment prevents erosion and allows runoff to infiltrate. Three-quarter inch to one and a half inch washed drain rock is an adequate size to prevent the rock from being moved by rainfall; however, you can use any kind of rock you would like to achieve desired aesthetic effects on your property. Installing non-woven geotextile fabric beneath the rock and then bordering the rock with wood or other material will reduce maintenance and increase effectiveness. You also need to ensure that the ground slopes slightly (1-2%) AWAY from the structure for a minimum of 5 feet.

Deck/stair drip-lines: To protect the soil under elevated decks, stairs, and walkways from erosion, install a three-inch layer of drain rock under the entire footprint of the structure and extend one foot past its edge. If you have structures on your property that are low to the ground and are inaccessible underneath, install a three-inch layer of rock or other mulch approximately twelve inches wide around the outside perimeter of the structures. This treatment will slow runoff velocity and reduce erosion potential. It is only necessary to install drain rock under and around these structures if there is not adequate vegetation established. Installing non-woven geotextile fabric beneath the rock and then bordering the rock with wood or other material will reduce maintenance, help control weeds, and increase effectiveness. You also want to ensure that the ground slopes slightly (1-2%) AWAY from the structure for a minimum of 5 feet.MAINTENANCE: Periodic replacement of gravel or mulch will be needed. Inspect the foundation to ensure that water is not saturating or eroding either the structure or the foundation.

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
26 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE Rainwater Collection SystemsUSES: COLLECT AND STORE WATER FROM ROOFS Rainwater collection is an excellent opportunity to SLOW water down by temporarily storing it. Captured water can be reused for irrigation or other non-potable options or metered off slowly after storm events to allow for infiltration and reduced flooding.RAIN BARRELS are small- to medium-sized containers placed outside buildings and connected to roof downspouts to collect runoff for later use in non-potable applications. Rain barrels have many advantages in urban settings. They take up very little space, are inexpensive, and easy to install. Rain barrels conserve water and reduce the volume of runoff moving off-site.MAINTENANCE: Rain barrels require regular draining after rainstorms and removal of leaves and debris collected on screens. Always check that the overflow is clear and directed to an appropriate location.

DID YOU KNOW? Sediment and debris that collect in the corners and edges of gutters support the growth of bacteria and other organisms that could contaminate rainwater. Because rounded gutter systems have fewer edges than their square-cornered counterparts, they provide cleaner water for rainwater catchment systems.

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`Ài]Ê pets, or debris.UÊ1ÃiÊvÀÊ`À}°UÊ
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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 27 WATER TANKS (CISTERNS) are manufactured water storage containers for non-potable use in residential, commercial, or industrial applications. Water tanks can be installed both above and below ground. Some tanks come as sectional pieces that can be put together to fit different space constraints. Tanks can be used with most guttered roofs to collect runoff and reduce runoff volume. Both water tanks and rain barrels can be used without pumping devices, instead relying on gravity flow. However, depending on the desired use for the water, a pump may be necessary for best performance.Larger tanks can be designed to also function as privacy screens, fences, or small retaining walls. Tanks can also be hidden under decks or serve as the foundation for play structures or other landscape features. Get creative, but always check local ordinances.Underground tanks are excellent options for areas with limited space. However, do not install underground systems beneath the path of vehicles or heavy machinery traffic unless they have been engineered for that purpose. Extra precautions may be needed when placing tanks in locations with high water tables or saturated clay soils. Contact an experienced licensed professional for before installing tanks/cisterns.BASIC COMPONENTS OF A RAINWATER COLLECTION SYSTEM:MAINTENANCE: Remove accumulated sediment and debris annually and inspect all components such as gutters and downspouts regularly. The inside the tank must also be inspected. Look for system leaks and cracks. Check all connections and hoses for wear and all screens or mesh for debris accumulation and holes. Make sure overflow is clear and directed to an appropriate location. Inspect all seams for leaks. Follow all manufacturers’ recommended maintenance for any storage device.

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This is normally a roof, but there are other options.
Gutters and downspouts
Round gutters are recommended because they are less likely to collect sediment in corners and edges which supports bacteria growth. Screening of tanks or barrels and downspout openings First-flush device Although recommended, this is optional.
Water tanks
There are various options including manufacturing
on-site.
Water tank vent Overflow device
This should be equal to or larger in diameter than the
inflow pipe to avoid backup.
Faucet and valve Filters and pumps (optional)

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
28 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO A H O MEOW NER’ S GU IDE T O TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE TURNIN G R UNOF F IN T O AR E SO UR C E Outlet ProtectionUSES: DOWNSPOUT, PIPE, OR CULVERT OUTLETS One of the most overlooked parts of a drainage system is the outlet of downspouts and pipes. Outlets should not release water onto bare soil or to an area prone to erosion. On the other hand, discharging water onto hardened impervious surface eliminates infiltration and increases the velocity of water that is directed to streets and streams creating a new set of challenges. All outlets that drain onto soils or other erodible surfaces should have some type of outlet protection. The BMPs below work to SLOW water down and/or SPREAD it out so it can SINK back into the soil. SPLASH GUARDS are simple devices that reduce the initial force of the water at the outlets and allow it to SPREAD out into an area of vegetation or an appropriate infiltration area and SINK back in to the soil.

A HOSE ADAPTER is an easy option (Drought Buster East Connect is pictured) that allows a standard garden hose to connect directly to a downspout. The hose can then be moved to different locations of your yard when it rains. It is perfect for watering trees or keeping any one area from becoming too saturated by allowing the water to SPREAD out through the landscape.ROCK DISSIPATORS are placed at outlets to SLOW runoff by reducing the initial impact of concentrated, high velocity runoff. For downspout outlets there are several easy creative options like filling a large plant container (it must have drain holes) with pebbles or placing rock on the ground surrounded by a wood border (similar to a rock drip-line). Large containers (1/2 wine barrels are an inexpensive option) with established plants and a thick layer of mulch (wood chips or gravel) also work well. Make sure that the drainage from under the pots flows away from your foundation.

For culverts or outlets with drain pipes over 8” in diameter, rock must be properly sized to prevent movement and placed with filter fabric underneath. Angular rock is typically recommended for high velocity flows because it locks in place and has a greater capacity to slow the water than rounded rock or broken concrete which tends to have some smooth edges. Rock should be carefully laid by hand forming an evenly lined depression or basin with no spaces between the rocks. It is highly advisable to contact a licensed qualified professional for design assistance.Generally speaking, work done at any outlets that drain directly into a waterway will need a permit. Contact the RCD for permitting assistance.

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 29 Rain Gardens USES: ROOF, WALKWAY, DRIVEWAY, OR PARKING AREA RUNOFF A rain garden is a specialized landscape design that captures stormwater runoff from roofs, driveways, or other impervious surfaces and allows water to SLOW down and SINK back into the ground. It uses plants to remove pollutants and improve infiltration allowing water to soak back into the ground. In soils with low permeability this system may be used to temporarily store water (not completely infiltrate) and remove pollutants before they enter a waterway.A rain garden design can be as simple as a shallow depression filled with plants that can flourish in both moist and dry conditions. The required size, shape, and depth of the garden depend on how much water you are trying to capture. For large amounts of runoff or areas with insufficient infiltration, there are a full spectrum of engineered features, such as specialized soil mixtures, an aggregate base, and subsurface drains that can be added. These more complex designs are often referred to as bioretention cells.Plant the center of the garden with species that tolerate wet conditions, such as native sedges and rushes. Around these, put plants suited to occasional standing water, like Yellow Monkeyflower (Mimulus guttatus) or California Aster (Aster chilensis). At the furthermost edges there are a variety of native evergreen and deciduous shrubs that prefer drier soil. Contact a local plant nursery knowledgeable in native and drought tolerant species for more suggestions or visit . Rain gardens should be located at least five feet from your house and property line, three feet from public sidewalks, and at least 40 feet from a septic system or steep slope. They should also be designed to drain within 48 hours to reduce the risk of standing water and mosquito breeding. Rain gardens are a beautiful way to protect your property from erosion and protect the water quality of local creeks. They can enhance the aesthetic value of a site; be used on small parcels of land, easements, and right-of-ways; and are easily incorporated into existing landscapes or open space.MAINTENANCE: Routine maintenance is required and can be performed as part of the regular site landscaping program. Weeding and irrigation are essential in the first couple of months while plants become established. Annual pruning and mulching are recommended. Additional irrigation may be necessary during drought years. The use of native, site-appropriate vegetation reduces the need for fertilizers, pesticides, excessive water, and overall maintenance.

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drought tolerant plants as appropriate.

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prevent water contamination and try organic options.

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water tables or clay soils without an overflow device.

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home’s foundation.
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6”to12”
overflow
mulch
rain garden soil mix
native soil

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
30 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE Swales USES: ROOF, WALKWAY, DRIVEWAY, OR PARKING AREA RUNOFF; LOW TO MODERATELY SLOPED HILLSIDES Swales are shallow channels designed to SLOW water down, SPREAD it out and allow it to SINK into the soil during low flows. Once saturated, they convey water to a safe outlet such as a rain garden (page 29) or other infiltration areas. They can be formed to fit almost all site conditions and landowner objectives. Depending on the existing landscape and available space, swales can have a meandering or nearly straight alignment. An advantage to a meandering swale is that its geometry maximizes the time water spends in the swale thus aiding the trapping of pollutants and sediments and infiltration. There are two types of swale systems: vegetated or rock-lined (sometimes called dry creek beds).

VEGETATED SWALESGrassed swales are vegetated with native perennial grass species along the bottom and sides of the channel. The vegetation in the channel slows runoff, allows sediments to filter out, and can help remove nutrients. Bioswales are vegetated swales that use engineered media (usually a designed soil mix consisting of sand, loam soil and hardwood mulch) beneath the swale to improve water quality, reduce runoff volume, and control peak runoff rates. Although their functions are similar to grassed swales, bioswales have a greater capacity for water retention, nutrient removal, and pollutant removal. Adding gravel or other permeable material below the soil mixture further enhances infiltration. When installing a swale, use a minimum 2% slope from beginning to end (longitudinal slope) to ensure that water is conveyed away from any structures and to a desired destination. Vegetation in the swale should be established before the first winter storms, so plant accordingly. Once saturated, swales function as conveyance structures carrying runoff to a rain garden, wetland, infiltration area, or other safe location. Swales are not recommended for areas that receive large amounts of sediment that can prematurely fill the swale and impede its functionality. MAINTENANCE: Routine maintenance is required. Before a planted swale is densely vegetated, it is extremely vulnerable to erosion and must be protected with straw matting and other erosion control materials. Maintenance of a dense, healthy vegetated cover consists of periodic mowing (keep grass 2-4 inches high), weed control, reseeding of bare areas, and clearing of debris and accumulated sediment. The swales should be regularly inspected for pools of water, formation of gullies, and for uniformity in cross section width and longitudinal slope. When the uniformity is compromised it should be corrected quickly.

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chinery directly in the swale as this will cause soil compaction.

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home’s foundation.

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plants or drought tolerant plants.

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pesticides only when necessary.
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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 31 ROCK-LINED SWALES (DRY CREEK BEDS) A rock-lined swale (or dry creek bed) uses rock instead of grass or other vegetation to safely infiltrate and convey runoff. Most are designed coarse rock in the channel for more surface area and topped with rounded rock on the surface for an aesthetically pleasing landscape feature that mimics a creek bed. When installing a swale use a minimum 2% slope from beginning to end (longitudinal slope) to ensure that water is conveyed away from any structures and to a desired destination. Non-woven geotextile fabric can be used underneath the rock.MAINTENANCE: Periodically remove leaves and replace rocks moved by surface flow.

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clay soils without an overflow device.

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
32 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE Pervious Hardscapes USES: WALKWAYS, PATIOS, PARKING AREAS AND DRIVEWAYS There are many new types of pervious materials that allow runoff to pass through and SINK back into the soil. Some popular choices are paver stones, turf block and permeable asphalts and pavements. There are now pervious options for almost any application. Since the variety of options is growing rapidly, we will only discuss them generally. For specifics on installation and use, contact your local retailer or product manufacturer.

PAVER STONES/FLAG STONES Paver stones are normally made of pre-cast brick, concrete, stone or other material and installed over a sand base. They come in various shapes and normally interlock and can form different shapes and patterns. Pervious pavers are designed to allow more runoff to SINK into the ground than traditional pavers. Each paver has a spacer that ensure the ideal distance between placed stones for maximum infiltration. Flag stones are larger and may be placed directly on the soil. A low-growing ground cover may be planted between flag stones to allow for greater infiltration. Pavers can be used in high use area such as parking lots, patios and walkways.MAINTENANCE: Keep the area clear of sediment to prevent clogging. Annual vacuum sweeping with a shop vac helps maintain permeability. The gaps between pavers may require occasional weeding or scorching and sand or gravel replenishment. Because pervious pavers are easily lifted and reset, they are easy to repair or replace.

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 33 TURF BLOCKTurf block (concrete blocks with holes) and similar products can be filled with sand or planted. They provide soil stability for driveways and walkways. Sometimes the pores are filled with gravel or cobble. They are not ideal for everyday parking, because of irrigation and maintenance demands, and if they are planted, long term parking inhibits sunlight required for plant growth.MAINTENANCE: Planted turf block may require regular mowing (depending on plant choices) as well as irrigation, fertilization and weeding.PERVIOUS PAVEMENT Pervious pavements contain pore spaces that allow infiltration of runoff. The water seeps through the material to a rock base layer underneath and is naturally filtered through the underlying soil where pollutants are removed. There are different types of pervious (or porous) pavements including porous asphalt and pervious concrete. Soil must have permeability between 0.5 and 3.0 inches per hour to be considered for pervious concrete installations. The bottom of the rock base/reservoir should be completely flat so that runoff will be able to infiltrate through the entire surface. Pervious pavement should be located a minimum of 2 to 5 feet above the seasonally high groundwater table and at least 100 feet away from drinking water wells. Ideal uses include walkways, residential parking areas, and driveways.Although installation is becoming easier and a more cost-effective alternative to traditional paving methods, appropriate construction techniques are necessary to ensure the effective performance of pervious pavements. Hiring a licensed contractor experienced in these materials is highly recommended and may even be required depending on the application.MAINTENANCE: Keep clear of soil, rocks, leaves, and other debris. Vacuuming annually, using a shop vac or specialized vacuum for larger areas, may be necessary to remove debris from the surface of the pavements. Always follow the manufacturer’s maintenance recommendations.

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
34 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE Ground Covers USES: TEMPORARY AND PERMANENT SOIL COVER, LOW USE WALKWAYS, AND SLOPE PROTECTION Using mulches or vegetation to cover bare soil is a key ingredient to SLOWING down and thus preserving valuable top soil, preventing sediment from being carried downstream, and reducing the potential for erosion. Ground cover varieties include vegetation, wood chip, gravel, or other mulches. Mulches are a good choice for areas with LESS THAN a 33% slope. Vegetation works well on areas with LESS THAN a 50% slope.

MULCH (ROCK, WOOD CHIPS, OR OTHER MATERIALS)Mulching is a simple and beneficial conservation practice you can use in your yard. Mulch is simply a protective layer of material that is spread on top of the soil. Mulches can be organic -- such as grass clippings, straw, bark chips, and similar materials -- or inorganic -- such as stones, brick chips, and recycled glass. Mulching has many benefits such as protecting soil from erosion, reducing compaction from the impact of heavy rains, conserving soil moisture, maintaining an even soil temperature, and preventing weed growth. It is also useful as temporary ground cover until supplemental vegetation becomes established.MAINTENANCE: Organic mulch may need to be replaced annually. Removal of old mulch and plant debris each fall prevents growth of fungus and other unwanted pests and diseases. Keep any organic materials at least 6 inches from building siding. Gravel or rock should be raked regularly to prevent the buildup of organic materials.

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DID YOU KNOW?There is much confusion when referring to the “steepness” of slope. We sometimes find a slope measured in degrees and other times as a percentage such as a 20% slope. To figure out the percentage slope, you would use the rise over run formula. For instance a distance of one foot horizontally with a one foot rise over that distance would give you the formula 1/1 or 100% slope. The equivalent angle or degree would be a 45° angle. The chart below is an easy conversion table to calculate the equivalent % grade to degree of slope.

SLOPE GRADIENT CONVERSION TABLE
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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 35 VEGETATION/PLANTINGPlants cover and protect the soil. Once established, plants provide excellent long-term erosion control. Their roots knit together to hold the soil in place. Their leaves, needles and twigs reduce the impact of rain, and the organic matter they add to the soil improves water infiltration. A drip irrigation system provides slow delivery of water to plants, so water infiltrates with little or no runoff.When selecting plants for a landscape, it is important to understand the site conditions. While most property owners select plant materials for their form and color, it is essential to know their solar, soil, and moisture requirements. Plants that do well in specific microclimates on a site are termed “site appropriate.” For the purpose of improving stormwater runoff choose plants that improve infiltration, decrease runoff, filter pollutants, and help stabilize slopes. Contact the RCD (page 55) or a local plant nursery knowledgeable in native and drought tolerant species best suited for these functions. Native plants (vegetation that grows naturally in particular climates or regions) are a great choice because of their performance, site enhancement, and life cycle cost benefits. Native plants typically are more cost-effective in the long run because they require less water and fertilizer, and they are more resistant to local pests and diseases than nonnative ornamentals. Costs are also reduced due to lower maintenance and replanting requirements. Additionally, native plants provide habitat for local/regional wildlife. If you choose nonnative plants, care should be taken to not plant invasive species as they tend to crowd out the native species. Contact the RCD (see page 55) for a list of plants that should be avoided.MAINTENANCE: Routine maintenance is required and can be performed as part of the regular landscaping program. Weeding and irrigation are essential in the first couple of months while plants become established. Annual pruning and mulching are recommended. Additional irrigation may be necessary during drought years. The use of native, site-appropriate vegetation reduces the need for fertilizers, pesticides, excessive water, and overall maintenance requirements.

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soils.

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
36 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE Erosion Control Blankets (ECBs)USES: BARE SOIL COVER AND SLOPE PROTECTION WHILE ESTABLISHING VEGETATION Erosion control blankets are a good tool to improve the success rate of new plantings and can quickly add a layer of protection to bare soils. Some of the benefits of ECBs include reducing seed and soil loss, decreasing runoff volume and velocity, reducing top soil disturbance and loss, encouraging plant root developments and suppressing weeds.It’s important to choose the correct ECB for the site conditions (slope, runoff velocity, and purpose). Ask your local retailer or contact the RCD for assistance (see page 55) in choosing the correct blanket. We have included basic installation instructions, but ALWAYS follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Before laying the blanket, prepare the soil surface making sure it is smooth to maximize soil-blanket contact. At the top of the slope, at least 2 feet from the crest, dig a 6” minimum ditch (called an anchor ditch). Line the ditch with the top of the ECB leaving enough to roll back over once the ditch is filled. Now fill the ditch back in over the ECB and wrap the extra over the top and secure with staples. Next, carefully roll the ECB vertically down the slope in the same direction as the water flows. Overlap the side edges of the contiguous blankets used by at least 4” and overlap the top and bottom edges of the blankets by at least 3”. The uphill roll should overlie the downhill roll. Stake the blanket, at a minimum, horizontally every 2 feet and vertically every 3 feet. Stake at least every foot where an uphill and downhill blanket overlap. If the ground is soft, staples can be used to hold the blanket down. Otherwise, 4” nails and a washer should be used.MAINTENANCE: Monitor for erosion until vegetation becomes established. Check for proper placement that could be disturbed by animals or a large storm event. Ensure that overlaps remain in place and correct as necessary.

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 37 Cross Drains USES: DRIVEWAYS, PRIVATE ROADS
Cross drains are used to SLOW water down by breaking up the impervious surface area into smaller sections. Smaller sections help divert the water to a point where it can SINK in to help combat the ill effects of driveway and road runoff. The BMPs described here can be installed on existing driveways and roads, both paved and unpaved. If you are constructing or reconstructing a road, other techniques such as outsloping can be used but are beyond the scope of this guide. Contact the RCD for a free copy of the Private Roads Maintenance Guide for more information on alternative techniques. See page 55 for contact information.

WATERBARSWaterbars are used to break up runoff into small units so that it does not have enough energy to erode soils. They also divert water away from streets and allow it to infiltrate. On unpaved roads, an earthen waterbar, also known as a water break, consists of a shallow trench with a parallel berm or ridge on the downslope side which is angled down across the road. On these surfaces they can be constructed by hand, with a backhoe, or with a blade-equipped tractor. Optimal size of an earthen waterbar is 12 inches above the road surface and 6 inches below the road surface. Asphalt or cement waterbars can be smaller in size (6 inches) and thereby provide greater ease of access. Water bars should be installed at a 30 to 45 degree angle and in most cases the outlet of waterbars should be protected with rock dissipaters.MAINTENANCE: Keep the outlets clear of debris and sediment so water drains freely. Inspect annually and make necessary repairs to earthen berms that break down over time and ensure there is no erosion.SLOTTED CHANNEL DRAIN A slotted drain installed across the width of your driveway is another option to address surface runoff. It consists of a metal-grated conveyance structure that transports water to a safe location. Decorative varieties are also available. Slotted channel drains are installed flush with the driveway surface, a feature that makes these conveyance devices more appealing for aesthetic reasons. The drain should be sloped no less than a ½ inch per foot of length to prevent clogging from sediment and debris.

It should also be angled at 30-45 degrees. Although slotted channel drains may be installed on any driveway, they are recommended for driveways with slopes greater than five percent and free of debris, soil, etc.MAINTENANCE: Ensure that the grate is open before and during storm events (not covered by leaf litter). Check that the outlet is protected, noneroding, and clear of debris and sediment so water drains freely.

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
38 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT
38 A H O ME O WNER’ S G UIDE T O TURNIN G R U N O FF I N T O A R E SO UR C E Retaining Walls and TerracingUSES: SLOPED AREASProtecting steep slopes is very serious! Improperly installed systems can pose a serious threat to life and property. We recommend that ALL retaining wall and terraced areas be designed and installed by a licensed qualified professional.Retaining walls and terraces are used to reduce the gradient or slope and provide level or gently sloping areas for establishing vegetation. Retaining walls and terrace walls are constructed with boulders, treated timber, bricks and/or interlocking concrete blocks. (Walls over three feet high must be designed by an engineer). There are MANY different types of retaining walls, each with a different purpose, so always check with a qualified professional before embarking on any wall project for soil retention. A building permit and engineering expertise are required to build many retaining walls. Always check with your local planning department to determine if a permit is necessary for your project. RETAINING WALLSRock retaining walls are an alternative to wood retaining walls and are often used next to a roadway or drainage way. They are freestanding walls built from rock 10 inches to 2 feet in diameter. A footing trench is dug along the toe of the slope, and the largest boulders are placed in the trench. Subsequent rocks are laid with at least three bearing points on previously laid rocks. The external face of the wall should incline slightly uphill, though the wall itself is freestanding and does not lean. As the wall is built, fill material is placed around and behind the rocks and packed in. Since the finished slope behind the wall will be flatter than before treatment, possibly a level terrace, it should be easier to establish all-important perennial plants on and above the wall. $$-$$$ M-C

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 39 DOUÊ *ÀÛ`iÊ>`iµÕ>ÌiÊ`À>>}iÊLi
`ÊÀiÌ>}ÊÜ>Ã°UÊ 1ÃiÊ>ÊµÕ>wi`Ê«ÀviÃÃ>ÊÌÊ`iÃ}ÊÞÕÀÊÜ>° Wood retaining walls can be used on slopes steeper than 50 percent and are often located between the base of a slope and an adjacent road, driveway or drainage way. Lumber and posts should be treated with an approved wood preservative (not creosote). Ensure proper drainage methods behind the wall are utilized. As always, vegetation should be established on the slope above the wall. WILLOW CUTTINGSWillow cuttings are used under very specific site conditions and are normally recommended only through the guidance of a qualified professional. Contact the RCD for more information (see page 55 for contact information).TERRACESMany materials are available for building terraces. Treated wood is easy to work with, blends well with plants, and is often less expensive than other materials. Interlocking concrete blocks are made specifically for walls and terraces and are more easily installed by a homeowner than other materials, such as fieldstone and brick. The steepness of the slope dictates wall height. Make the terraces in your yard high enough so the land between them is close to level. This soil surface should be carefully revegetated. Be sure the terrace material is strong and anchored well to stay in place through cycles of freezing, thawing, and heavy rainstorms. Large terraces should be tied back into the slope and properly drained. This takes expertise and equipment, so you may want to restrict the terraces you build to a foot or two in height. Get help from a professional to make sure higher walls stand up to the forces of gravity and water pressure in the soil.MAINTENANCE: Always check retaining walls to make sure they are not leaning or failing. Ensure there is adequate drainage behind walls and the drains remain functional.

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
40 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE DON’T FORGET MAINTENANCE!

ACTIVITY FREQUENCY WINTER SPRING SUMMER FALL N OTES
GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTSClean Gutters Monthly and after every major storm throughout the rainy season.

Installing gutter guards can reduce maintenance.

Inspect for leaks and repair
Monthly and after every major storm throughout the rainy season.

Leaking gutters can cause damage to your roof and eaves.

Check downspout outlets
After every major storm. Check for blockages and ensure runoff is routed ways from buildings and structures.

DRIP LINE PROTECTIONReplant/prune vegetation
Annually (before the first rain) or more frequently if needed.

Replace dead or dying plants. Prune to keep from direct contact with structures.

Replace rock or ground cover
Annually or as needed. Replace rock and mulch to ensure no bare soil is present.

Inspect foundations and structures
Annually. Check for mold or damage to foundations or
rot on wood structures. Replace as necessary.

RAIN WATER HARVESTING SYSTEMSClean debris from screens
As needed throughout the rainy season
Lead and other debris can clog screens and create undesirable overflow and erosion.

Drain and clean tanks
Annually or as needed Clean accumulated sediment from tanks. A shop vac can be used on large tanks.

Inspect tanks for leaks/cracks
Annually Repair or replace as needed.

Inspect plumbing Annually or as needed Inspect all connections, pumps, and filters.SWALESVegetation management Annually or as needed Periodic mowing (keep grass 2-4 inches high), weed control, and reseeding of bare areas.

Debris and sediment removal
Annually or as needed Always remove debris that could obstruct the swales function. Remove accumulated sediment as necessary in the summer.

Inspect for erosion and ponding
Throughout the rainy season Regularly inspect for ponding, gullies, and uniformity in cross section width and longitudinal slope. When the uniformity is compromised it should be corrected quickly.

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CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 41

ACTIVITY FREQUENCY WINTER SPRING SUMMER FALL N OTES
OUTLETSInspect for erosion
After major storms Outlets should be checked for erosion and to ensure they are diverted to a safe location.

PERVIOUS HARDSCAPESSediment and debris removal
Annually and as needed. Vacuum using a shop vac or specialized vacuum using manufactures recommendations. Remove leaf litter.

GROUNDCOVERSReplace organic mulch and remove old mulch and plant debris Annually. Organic mulch may need to be replaced annually.

Removal of old mulch and plant debris each fall prevents growth of fungus and other unwanted pests and diseases. Keep organic materials at least 6 inches from building siding.

Rake gravel and rock
Regularly. Gravel or rock should be raked regularly to prevent the buildup of organic materials.

EROSION CONTROL BLANKETSCheck for movement, placement and proper overlap Regularly until vegetation becomes established.

Monitor for erosion until vegetation becomes established. Check for proper placement that could be disturbed by animals or a large storm event. Ensure that overlaps remain in place and correct as necessary.

CROSS DRAINSCheck outlets Regularly during the rainy season. Keep outlets clear of debris. Earthen berms periodically need to be rebuilt. Remove sediment accumulation on uphill side of berms.

Clear inlets Regularly during the rainy season. Ensure slotted drain inlets are clear of debris.RETAINING WALLSInspect for failures and proper drainage Regularly. Always check retaining walls to make sure they are not leaning or failing. Ensure there is adequate drainage behind walls and the drains remain functional.

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CHAPTER 3: DIFFICULT SITES AND SITE CONSTRAINTS
42 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE STEEP SLOPES The steepness of slope plays a significant role in determining the practices that can be installed. Avoid installing practices on slopes that are greater than 50% without professional consultation. Use caution when installing practices on any steep slopes. By directing and infiltrating runoff to these sites you run the risk of saturating soils and promoting slumping and conditions that promote landslides. Out-letting drainage systems on steep slopes can also cause erosion that can lead to gully formation and even landslides. If your home is on or near steep slopes, please consult an expert before considering home drainage projects.

PREEXISTING EROSIONPROBLEMS In some cases, preexisting erosion problems may complicate the site and preclude the implementation of drainage practices. It is important to be aware of your current erosion issues and be sure that the drainage practices you implement will not make your drainage and erosion issues worse. Of particular importance is ensuring that you do not exacerbate current conditions by diverting flows into already dynamic systems. If your home has existing erosion problems, please consult an expert before considering home drainage projects.

GEOLOGICALLYHAZARDOUS SITES The County of Santa Cruz administers the Geologic Hazards Ordinance. This ordinance identifies areas subject to hazardous conditions and notes these hazards on a series of hazard maps. These maps should be consulted to identify if your home is located within a hazard area. If your home is in one of these areas, please consult an expert before considering home drainage projects.

CHAPTER 3

DIFFICULT SITES AND SITE CONSTRAINTS
There are a wide variety of soil types found in Santa Cruz County. When attempting to implement any BMP that increases the infiltration of water into the soil, it is critical that the soils have the capacity to handle the amount of water being directed to the area. Conducting a thorough analysis of your soils and determining if a BMP will function properly are critical to the long term success of any project. In order to evaluate your soils visit websoilsurvey.sc.egov.usda.gov. Be sure to verify that the soil conditions noted on the website are accurate by observing your own soils or by contacting the RCD or a qualified professional. Also make sure to look for areas of shallow parent material or infiltration limiting layers such as hardpans. These areas may required engineering for proper function fo BMPs.

Frequently, site conditions make it difficult or impossible to implement certain home drainage practices. For example, sites that are on steep slopes, located in a wet area with a high water table, or soil conditions that have poor infiltration rates can be problematic.

Below is a list of primary site constraints that you should consider when evaluating drainage practices for your home. Although there are many opportunities to control runoff on site, it is important to consult a professional to ensure that all options are thoroughly considered and to avoid unforeseen consequences.

DID YOU KNOW? Professionals who specialize in erosion and sediment issues can earn a Certified Professionals in Erosion and Sediment Control (CPESC) certificate.To receive CPESC certification, an applicant must have successfully passed a written examination designed to determine proficiency in the principles, practices, and legislation of erosion and sediment control. A CPESC must also have either 1) earned a High School Diploma (or equivalent) and had seven years or more of professional level experience in the erosion and sediment control profession OR 2) earned a qualifying BS degree or higher and had three years of professional level experience in the soil erosion and sediment control profession.To find a CPESC in your area, visit www.cpesc.org.

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CHAPTER 3: DIFFICULT SITES AND SITE CONSTRAINTS
A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 43 COASTAL BLUFFSCoastal bluffs are inherently geologically unstable and prone to erosion. You should avoid placing any additional drainage on these sites whenever possible. Careful management of site drainage is probably the most cost-effective approach to minimizing bluff hazards. Even where circumstances dictate significant structural stabilization efforts, such as shoreline bulk heading or regrading of slopes, site drainage remains an essential component of the solution. Consult a drainage professional when designing drainage system for sites on coastal bluffs.

AREAS PRONE TOFLOODINGUnder a widespread heavy rain scenario (accumulation of .30 inches of rain per hour or more), severe flooding is likely in low-lying areas within a basin. Based on the 100-year flood plain (FEMA Zone A), 11% of the developed parcels (8,359) and 5% of the roads (103 miles) within Santa Cruz County are located within or intersected by the 100-year flood plain. If your home is within a flood prone area, please consult an expert before considering home drainage projects.

LANDSLIDE ZONESSanta Cruz County is extremely susceptible to landslides due to the topography and geological soil characteristics. Based on GIS survey analysis 7.5% of the developed parcels (5,523) and 11% of roads (233 miles) are within or intersected by known landslide-prone areas. Installing complex drainage practices that promote infiltration may also promote landslide activity if hill slopes become saturated. Designing drainage practices on these sites requires special care. To determine if your home is in a landslide area, consult the potential landslide area map that can be found on the County of Santa Cruz Web site. If it is located in a landslide zone please consult an expert before considering home drainage projects.

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44 CHAPTER 4: LOCAL PROJECTS
A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE
CHAPTER 4

LOCAL PROJECTS
This sections contains example of both residential and small commercial projects installed throughout the Monterey Bay area that incorporate the Best Management Practices (BMPs) outlined in this guide. To further incentive home and business owners to integrate watershed friendly practices into their landscapes, the Monterey Bay Friendly Landscaping & Gardening (MBFL) programs were developed in a collaborative effort between Ecology Action, California Landscape Contractors Association (Central Coast Chapter), Ecological Landscaping Association, Monterey Bay Master Gardeners, Surfrider Foundation, Resource Conservation Districts, and more than 20 public agencies representing water utilities, solid waste and recycling and stormwater management. The programs offers benefits such as discounts at local retailers and public recognition to home and business owners whose landscapes are certified as MBFL. You can also find listings for free and low-cost how-to workshops, rebates for adding BMPs to your property, and a list of trained Green Gardeners to help with all of your landscape needs. Certified Monterey Bay Friendly Landscaping projects are identified with the MBFL logo. You can also look around town for additional certified landscapes displaying the MBFL yard sign. For more information on the programs, visit www.green-gardener.org.

RAINWATER TANKS/NATIVE PLANTS
Location: Live Oak Designer: Michael Johnson, California H20rticulture Services Installation: Live Oak Grange members Project Description: In 2014, the Grange installed the first rainwater collection system for toilet flushing on a commercial building in Santa Cruz County. The installation of the 1320 gallon cistern gave the Grange the opportunity to re-landscape the front of the property with fast growing California native shrubs like Flannel Bush and Ceanothus that shade the cistern, and a rain garden to infiltrate overflow from the cistern into the landscape. The Grange also has a smaller rainwater harvesting collection system made from recycled barrels that provides water for chickens.

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 45

PERVIOUS WALKWAY/RAIN BARREL
Location: Capitola Designer: Michael Arnone + Associates, Jennifer Colfer, Landscape Architect Installation: Kurt Christenson, Landscape Contractor Project Description: This complete redesign included removal of concrete that was replaced with gravel and flagstone paths and patios. Downspouts are diverted to vegetated areas and rain barrels. The homeowner received rebates from the water district for both lawn removal and rain barrel installation.

BIORETENTION/DRY CREEK BED
Location: Santa Cruz Designer: Michael Arnone + Associates Project Description: Bioswales disguised as dry creek beds capture all of the roof runoff from the building. Dought tolerant plants require very limited irrigation.

DRY CREEK BEDLocation: Aptos Designer: Nicole W. Douglas/Douglas Landscape DesignInstallation: Juan RenteriaProject Description: This project aimed to keep stormwater onsite by redirecting the downspout into a dry creek bed. Project was installed immediately prior to large rainstorms in December 2014 and it functioned beautifully; all water was recharged into ground before reaching the driveway. This project received both a turf removal and downspout disconnect rebate from the Soquel Creek Water District.

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RAINWATER CATCHMENTLocation: Scotts Valley Designer: Earthcraft Landscape Design Installation: Superior Pump CompanyProject Description: This is a 30,000-gallon rainwater harvesting system that has reduced erosion, sedimentation, and peak flows into Granite Creek. It has also increased aquifer recharge and will provide for the owner’s annual irrigation (drought tolerant plantings, large organic vegetable garden and orchard, etc.)RAIN GARDEN/DRY CREEK BED Location: Santa Cruz Designer: Love’s Gardens Installation: Love’s Gardens Project Description: The rain garden and dry creek bed stopped flooding of the front path to the house and now keep water on-site. Runoff infiltrates and is stored in the soil for later use by drought tolerant plants and no longer carries potential pollutants from the street to the Monterey Bay.BIORETENTION POND/RAIN GARDENLocation: Watsonville Designer: Ausonio Incorporated of CastrovilleProject Description: The bioretention pond treats runoff and reduces peak flows from a small parking area at Smith and Vandiver, a company in Watsonville that makes and distributes shower, bath, and body care products.

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 47 VEGETATED SWALE/BIORETENTIONLocation: Santa Cruz Designer: Ifland Engineers, Inc.Installation: Durden Construction and Leonard Yee (Landscaping)Project Description: This small commercial project includes a parking lot with curb openings to allow stormwater runoff to enter into a biofiltration swale in the landscape island between rows of parking. Another swale directs runoff from the parking lot to a raingarden near the intersection with Madrone Street. Together, these features provide treatment of stormwater runoff prior to its discharge from the site to the public storm drain system. Prior to the project, the site was completely covered in impervious surfaces with no treatment or detention.PERVIOUS HARDSCAPESLocation: Aptos Designer: Ifland EngineersInstallation: DEVCON ConstructionProject Description: Construction of a new office building and associated parking for CFSCC. The building was cut into the naturally sloping hillside to minimize the appearance of total building height and required grading. Pervious concrete was utilized in parking spaces to encourage groundwater recharge. In addition, rock-filled drilled shafts were installed under pervious concrete parking at the low end of the site to further promote infiltration. Only the overflow from more severe storm events is intended to be released from the site.DRY CREEK BED Location: Pacific Grove Designer: Oona Johnsen, Landscape Architect Maintenance: Native Sun Landscapes Project Description: The lawn was removed and the downspouts were directed to the newly installed dry creek bed to allow for infiltration of the roof runoff and reduce the volume of runoff to the sidewalk and the street.

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SWALE/PREVIOUS HARDSCAPE
Location: Santa Cruz Designer: Love’s Gardens Installation: Love’s Gardens Project Description: The original impervious concrete path was removed, and the pieces were used to create an urbanite path that allows water to infiltrate. Water that was draining to the street is now diverted to the path and into the landscape (see flexible black pipe extending from the soil bed at the start of the path). The use of native, drought tolerant plants in combination with the extra water now stored in the soil allowed the irrigation system to be removed thus conserving more water. All of these practices support cleaner water and reduced flooding by limiting runoff leaving the site.

UNDERGROUND WATER STORAGE/GROUNDCOVERLocation: Santa Cruz Designer: Habitat Gardens Installation: Habitat Gardens Project Description: This rainwater storage system collects rainwater from two downspouts on the front of the house. The water passes through a debris filter and then into a 3,000-gallon underground water storage cistern. The water is used to irrigate the landscape providing nutrient-rich water to vegetation and local wildlife, as opposed to commercially treated water that can contain chlorine and other additives. The overflow from the cistern empties into the seasonal pond located on top of the cistern to allow for more rainwater storage. When the seasonal pond is full, it overflows down a seasonal creek bed or rock swale. The runoff that eventually makes its way to the street has been significantly reduced though infiltration.

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 49 GROUND COVERS/EROSION CONTROL BLANKETSLocation: Santa Cruz Designer: Habitat Gardens Installation: Habitat Gardens Project Description: This project used jute netting to help control erosion until the plants were established. Mexican Sage and jute netting covered with shredded redwood bark were used.SWALE/BIOFILTERLocation: Soquel Designer: Fall Creek Engineering Installation: Homeowner Project Description: The owner wanted to incorporate green stormwater techniques for the new ADU (Accessory Dwelling Unit or studio) roof as well as the existing house. As part of this project the driveway was replaced with pervious pavers. Runoff overflow from the pervious pavers, the existing house roof, and the new ADU roof were all directed towards a long dry swale/biofilter. This swale serves as an all weather pathway into the backyard and as a stormwater feature. This swale has been effective in reducing runoff from the site through means of infiltration and improves water quality through biofiltration.

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PERVIOUS PAVEMENT/STORMWATER TREATMENT
SYSTEM
Location: Watsonville Designer: Fall Creek Engineering Installation: Johnstone Moyer Inc.Project Description: Parkhurst Terrace (Parkhurst) is a 5.89-acre parcel located in southern Santa Cruz County that converted an existing recreational vehicle park into a permanent occupancy, affordable residential development. A portion of the runoff was retained on-site using shallow infiltration chambers and porous pavement. Additional drainage from the roads, other paved areas, and from off-site areas was captured and conveyed in a storm sewer system. All site runoff that exits the site passes through a stormwater treatment system, which will serve to remove silt and grease at the lower portion of the system before the water enters the storm drain off-site. The reduction of impervious surfaces area and use of on-site retention systems reduced the discharge rate and volume of runoff that was flowing to the off-site drainage course along Freedom Boulevard.GROUND COVERS Location: Santa Cruz Designer: Love’s Gardens Installation: Love’s Gardens Project Description: This small patio area is made of urbanite (broken concrete from the site) and recycled tumbled glass. It increases the pervious area and allows water to infiltrate.

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 51 DRY CREEK BEDS/RAINWATER CATCHMENT/ DRIVEWAY STRIP/WATER-WISE PLANTSLocation: Capitola Designer: Raison Cain and Habitat Gardens Installation: Creative Landscapes and Habitat GardensProject Description: This landscape is primarily a California native and edible landscape. There is a large rainwater-harvesting tank in the backyard that feeds the drip irrigation, vegetable bed, and garden hose. There are two drive strips in the driveway to reduce the need for concrete and allow California native grasses to grow in the center of the strip. There are two seasonal creek beds or rock swales that collect rainwater from the downspouts to help mitigate stormwater runoff. The creek beds are lined with plants that help filter and slow down the water before it leaves the property. One of the rock areas that captures runoff is three feet deep and filled with cobble. This extra depth allows for more stormwater mitigation and percolation.

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RAINWATER CATCHMENT/RAIN GARDENS/ DETENTION BASINS
Location: Soquel Designer: Michael Arnone + Associates, Jennifer Colfer, Landscape Architect Installation: Prime Landscape Project Description: The Resource Conservation District secured funding through the State Water Resources Control Board from an EPA non-point source grant to help install this landscape at the Soquel Creek Water District headquarters. Roof runoff is collected in a 2850 gallon cistern and used for irrigation. A rain garden and under ground detention system capture additional runoff that infiltrates back into the ground and reduced overflow to the parking lot.

DRY CREEK BED/WATER-WISE PLANTS
Location: Marina Designer: Paul Lord - Marina Coast Water District Project Description: The Marina Coast Water District’s Water-wise Landscape Demonstration Garden was created from an old abandoned lot into a vibrant public space that motivates community members to practice and learn more about water-wise garden design principles and practices. It is located in front of the Marina Coast Water District offices at 2840 4th Ave in Marina. Guests are asked to visit the garden during business hours, 8am -5pm on Monday -Thursday.

RAINWATER CATCHMENT
Location: Seaside Designer: GLS Landscape
Project Description: Chartwell is the first LEED platinum school built in the United States. Visitors, staff and students at Chartwell enjoy day-lit classrooms with carefully planned window systems that reduce the need for electricity by 50%, a roof that reduces heat and catches rainwater for toilet flushing, microfans and air quality sensors in classrooms that take advantage of naturally occurring convection currents (this eliminates the ambient noise of other ventilation ducting systems), and an athletic field with infrastructure for recycled irrigation water. By simply moving through the thoughtfully designed series of courtyards, trails, recreation and gathering places, students, faculty, families and visiting community members will know a sense of place that causes us to belong, to take ownership and to care.

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 53 SWALES/BIORETENTION/PERVIOUS HARDSCAPESLocation: Soquel Designer: SSA Landscape Design Architects Incorporated Installation: QLM Inc. General Engineering ContractorProject Description: The Heart of Soquel Park and Parking improvement project is located in Soquel Village and borders a potion of Soquel Creek. The project includes a walkway along the top bank of Soquel Creek, a community open plaza and other open space, better visual, pedestrian, bicycle and vehicular access into this portion of Soquel Village from Porter Street and Soquel Drive. The project incorporates best management practices and Low Impact Development stormwater practices such as rain gardens, permeable surfaces and riparian restoration to improve water quality and natural habitat.

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DRY CREEK BEDLocation: Capitola Designer: Max Spooner and Sean Wilson Installation: Max Spooner and Sean WilsonProject Description: The landowners removed their thirsty lawn and added a beautiful dry creek bed. The downspouts that were previously routed to the street are now directed into the creek bed to allow the water to infiltrate back into the ground. This project also received a lawn removal rebate from the Soquel Creek Water District PERVIOUS HARDSCAPE DRIVEWAY/ WATER-WISE PLANTSLocation: Santa Cruz Designer: Habitat Gardens Installation: Habitat Gardens Project Description: The concrete driveway was removed along with the existing lawns in both the front and backyard. Broken pieces of concrete from the driveway were used to make flagstone-like pathways and a small patio. The concrete was stained with environmentally friendly iron sulfate to give it a warm, rusty flagstone color. The new driveway is made of two pervious, turf block drive strips with thyme growing out of the turf blocks and in between the cracks of the stepping-stones. Thyme is planted in between all the stepping-stones, and the rest of landscape is very drought resistant with a wonderful mix of Mediterranean plants, succulents, California native plants, edible plants, and one fruit tree.

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A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE 55

RESOURCE GUIDE
Copies of this guide are available online at:www.rcdsantacruz.org or www.green-gardener.orgHard copies can be obtained through the organizations marked with an .

American Rainwater Catchment Systems Association www.arcsa.orgCalifornia Landscape Contractors Association www.clca.orgCalifornia Native Plant Society (Santa Cruz Chapter)www.cruzcnps.orgCentral Coast Greywater Alliancecentralcoastgreywater.orgCentral Coast Low Impact Development Initiativewww.centralcoastlidi.orgCertified Professionals in Erosion and Sediment Controlwww.cpesc.org City of Pacific Grove; Planning Department
300 Forest Avenue Pacific Grove, CA 93950 (831) 648-3183 cityofpacificgrove.org City of Santa Cruz; Public Works Department
809 Center Street, Room 201 Santa Cruz, California 95060 (831) 420-5160 www.cityofsantacruz.com City of Watsonville
Customer Services320 Harvest DriveWatsonville CA 95076(831) 768 3133 Coastal Watershed Council(831) 464-9200 www.coastal-watershed.org County of Santa Cruz; Public Works Department
701 Ocean Street #410Santa Cruz, CA(831) 454-2160 www.co.santa-cruz.ca.usEcology Action 877 Cedar Street #240 Santa Cruz, CA 95061-1188 (831) 426-5925 www.ecoact.org Marina Coast Water District
11 Reservation Road Marina, CA 93933 (831) 384-6131 www.mcwd.orgMonterey Bay Friendly Landscaping www.green-gardener.orgMonterey Bay Green Gardener Programwww.green-gardener.org Monterey Regional Stormwater
Management Program 5 Harris Court, Bldg D Monterey, CA 93940 (831) 645-4621 www.montereysea.org Pajaro Valley Water Management Agency
36 Brennan Street Watsonville, CA 95076 (831) 722-9292 www.pvwma.dst.ca.us Resource Conservation District of
Santa Cruz County (RCD)820 Bay Avenue, Suite 136 Capitola, CA 95010 (831) 464-2950 www.rcdsantacruz.org Save Our Shores(831) 462-5660 www.saveourshores.org
San Lorenzo Valley Water District
13060 State Rte 9 Boulder Creek, CA 95006 (831) 338-2153 www.slvwd.com Scotts Valley Water District
2 Civic Center Drive Scotts Valley, CA 95066 (831) 438-2363 www.svwd.org Soquel Creek Water District
5180 Soquel Drive Soquel, CA 95073 (831) 475-8500 www.soquelcreekwater.orgSurfrider Foundation(831) 476-7667 www.surfridersantacruz.org USDA-Natural Resources Conservation Service
(NRCS)820 Bay Avenue, Suite 128 Capitola, CA 95010 (831) 475-1967 www.nrcs.usda.govWater Conservation Coalition of Santa Cruz Countywww.watersavingtips.org

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56 A HOMEOWNER’S GUIDE TO TURNING RUNOFF INTO A RESOURCE City of Watsonville

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Center your cursors on a corner of your roof and click. Move to the next corner and click. You will see a yellow line connecting the corners. Keep clicking and outlining until you have outlined the part of your roof that drains to your downspout. Make sure you click on the corners in order. If you want to readjust the outline, hover over the section you want to adjust.

Your cursor will change to become a hand and you can left click and drag the line where you want it. The box to the right of the screen will show you the perimeter and area of your selected roof area (make sure the units are in square feet). If you are implementing different rain-saving projects (such as a rain garden on one side of your house and containers on the other side), you may have to do this multiple times for each area.

You need to know your roof area in order to calculate your minimum rain harvest volume, which is what the program uses to calculate your rebate dollar amount. We recommend using Google Earth to calculate the area. You may find it helpful to sketch out your house as you take measurements.

Note that you can use this method to measure other areas on your property, such as a landscaping area or another impervious area that you want to capture rainwater from. Measurements can be an estimate.

How do I measure my roof area?
Write down your calculations in your application.

Go to Google.com/earth.

Find your property.

Click on the search icon and enter your home
address.

See your house from a bird's eye view.

Click on the 2D on the bottom right to remove 3D view. You can zoom using the scroll wheel or your mouse, pan to your house using the left click, and rotate the view by holding down the scroll wheel and clicking left. Zoom and pan the screen so that you can see your house from above.

Find the measurement tool.

Click on the ruler tool and put the units in feet.

Measure your roof area.
1 2
3 4
5 6
Attachment 4

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Area (Sqft) * 0.0625 ft * 7.48 gallon/ft3 = gallons
Your rain harvest volume is the amount of water in gallons that falls onto your roof (or other impervious area that you are capturing rainwater from) during a storm. To qualify for the rebate, you must capture all of your minimum rain harvest volume either in a container or in your landscape. The minimum rain harvest volume is the one produced during a typical San Diego storm.

What is my required rain harvest volume?
You will need to know the area in square feet of your roof or the impervious area you are capturing rainwater from. Use this formula:

What is a minimum rain harvest volume?
How to size your landscape feature
300 500 700 800 1000 1200 1500 1750 2000 2500
30 50 70 80 100 120 150 175 200 250
25 42 58 67 84 100 125 146 167 208
22 36 50 57 72 86 107 125 143 179
19 31 44 50 63 75 94 110 125 156
17 28 39 45 56 67 84 97 111 139
15 25 35 40 50 60 75 88 100 125
140 234 327 374 468 561 701 818 935 1169
Number of Gallons Stored in Rain Garden
Size of Roof or Other Impervious Area (Square Feet)

0.5 1

1.5 2

2.5 3
Soil Media Depth in feet
Rain garden size in square feet
300 500 700 800 1000 1200 1500 1750 2000 2500
29 47 66 75 94 113 141 165 188 235
23 38 53 60 75 90 113 132 151 188
19 32 44 50 63 75 94 110 126 157
16 27 38 43 54 65 81 94 108 135
15 24 33 38 47 57 71 83 94 118
13 21 29 34 42 50 63 74 84 105
140 234 327 374 468 561 701 818 935 1169
Number of Gallons Stored in Rock Garden
Size of Roof or Other Impervious Area (Square Feet)

0.5 1

1.5 2

2.5 3
Rock Depth in feet
Rock garden size in square feet
Example
If you are capturing
rainwater from a 1,000
sqft roof, you will need
to capture 468 gallons.

If you have a space
that is 94 sqft, you can
build a rock garden
that is 0.5 ft deep, or a
rain garden that is 1 ft
deep (not counting a
ponding area). If you
have less space, you
can capture the same
amount of water if the
garden is deeper.

If your roof and
available area do not
fit in this table,
program staff will help
you calculate exact
measurements.

Depth of soil or rocks does not include 0.5 feet that should be left empty for water to pond.

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Imperial Beach City CouncilAugust 2, 2023

Imperial Beach City Council
August 2, 2023